Sunday, April 8, 2018

Spring Wardrobe 2018

Step 16: balancing the neutrals

My wardrobe has way too little neutrals :-D
So I decided to make one of the "uniform tops" golden brown and the shorts grey.

There are absolutely NO bridge garments.

It is a very nice wardrobe... now, I question the existence of TWO neutrals, because the neutrals aren't that nice together. They go, but... the mere idea of wearing a brown shirt with grey pants... GIVE ME COLOR!!!

But, what became very clear is that it's not MY wardrobe.

I put together brown jeans, t-shirt, and a cardigan.
SOOOO BOOOOORIIIING!!!
I mean, yes, I used to wear things like that. Now I want more. I want the pants to be like Lagenlook pants.
I want the cardigan to be more... alive. Not so neat. More artistic. More art.
The T-shirt is OK.

White shirt. BOOOOOOORIIIIIINGG!!!
Now, if the pants were Lagenlook pants, then, but the shirt should be really soft, and have some clever details. Like... could it be the kind with a huge pirate collar? What would the "5 ways of wearing a shirt" be with a shirt like that?

And I need a belt. A sash belt. Maybe more than one... one wide sash and one brick woven folklore ribbon belt over it.

The same thing with the jersey skirt. Give me more. Right now it's so preppy and I am not preppy.

The same with the grey core four. A jacket/blazer is not a layering piece.
I don't want a fifth cardi. Come on, 4 is enough!

Now, the cigarette pants are OK, but they have to be made in a genuine 50s pattern. Having the waist up to one's armpits is part of the fun. Besides, that's how my body looks. I have REALLY HIGH HIPS:

Also, for some reason, the grey jacket doesn't look so nice anymore... I think I might want one of those Chinese embroidered jackets instead... Damn Polyvore. I would need to get to my sets right now.
But also, I might not need a jacket/blazer at all, I have my padded kimono jacket.

The rest looks OK.

Step 17

Now, I don't have a dark neutral sweater, a light neutral tee, a dark neutral tee - I only have two tees and one short sleeve blouse. Which isn't neutral. I suppose it could pass as a light tee, though. Also, I think one of my cardies would pass as "dark neutral sweater". I don't want a sweater right now. It's spring.
I have NEVER used denim shirts, and I don't think I'll start now. I have never been much for shirts anyway, they are a bit too preppy for me.

 What I do use, and a lot is dresses, so I think I'm going to put in yet another dress, and cordially ignore that that gives me fewer options. It's not like I want to wear a different outfit every day as it is.

I also don't have dark dress trousers. I disagree, not with Coco Chanel, but with Janice, about the need of suits in today's society. Back in the 60s, everyone was wearing suits when they were in public places. At least every well-dressed woman. Today we don't wear suits, except at work, if the work is such. Most people don't even wear suits in such works. So, no, we don't need suits. I don't need suits.

So, let's go through my wardrobe plans and see what we need to get and what of what I already have I can use.

I have some "harem pants". Those will do.
I have a simple white t-shirt. I have enough of tops of all kinds.
That jersey skirt sounds like something I would use.
I have white shirts and blouses
I have enough cardigans

I would really like to have cigarette pants.
I would like to have a teal/red cardigan
I would like a flirty little blouse.
I would like to have a French striped boatneck.
I need a fitted waistcoat, folklore model, like a national costume
I would like a ruana. If I win the auction for the plaid, I'll give myself one.
Culotte shorts.
I want a red wrap dress.
I also want the padded kimono jacket. I really need something light and easy I can just grab and go.
I also want the red trenchcoat.

Something that wasn't on the list, is a pair of red pants and a floral skirt.
I also want a pair of flower pants. 

I have all the shoes and bags and jewelry I can need.
What I need is
a bronze watch
leather gloves
spring hat
eyeglasses
and the belts.

Spring wardrobe 2018

1) Decide the color

Two neutrals: soft tan and grey; two accent colors; teal and coral; soft white
Tan leather, bronze metals

Things to note:
- the style and impression I wish to make: Like that freesia flower - sort of bohemian, eccentric, fairly feminine, colorful, happy, playful, forest fairy maiden, sensual, exciting, soft natural, ethereal, a bit of fairytale...
- lifestyle and needs: I'm living on a disability pension. I am chronically ill, with fibromyalgia. I basically do nothing. I like writing, crafting and making art. I like cooking and baking. I need clothes that are comfortable and easy.
- climate: humid continental. The weather is SLIGHTLY colder (a couple of degrees, not more) in Stockholm than in Boston, but practically the same.
- body type: V/O - I do have a waist, but it's very, very short, and disappears between my large chest and a big tummy. I also have square hips and not much bum. I'm fat. Size 52-54EU. Figure problems? Nah. But I would like to look less fat and like I have a waist. Best features; face, cleavage, hands.

* I want to have folklore inlay, wildly colorful and eccentric, but stylish and well put together like Miss Fisher's wardrobe

My favorite clothing from my past:
- a skating dress. It was turquoise and teal, knit, with pompoms.
- 50s little girl dresses. I wore them even to school. Now, I was born 1969 and went to school in rural Eastern Finland. All my classmates had like sweaters and jogging pants. Every day. I still love dresses.
- This... thing. It was like a sweater and tights in one piece, rib knit, cotton, with a zipper in front. I loved it. Used it all the time. Don't know what to call it. Bodystocking?

 - cream corduroy pants and navy corduroy blazer. Loved that thing.
- pleated skirt
- knit t-shirts - basically twin sets, liked the cardies too
- one of my favorites was one of these cardies together with faded black jeans
- Another cardi I used until it started fall apart was Gudrun Sjödén's embroidered one.
- a cashmere sweater with short collar
- a purple sweater my sister knit
- brown jeans
- tights worn with wool shorts (like cycling shorts, really, wool pettipants) and short dun jacket.
- an overall - with wool tights and dun jacket, all year around.
- my mom's old cigar pants
- I love the 80s long sweaters and sweatshirts. I had two, about as long as that red tunic-pinafore thingy the lady is wearing. I paired them with skinny pants, leggings or tube skirt. Long. The sweatshirt was oversized, and the impression was that of a lollipop. Loved it.
- my mother's old grey blazer. It has black satin collar and buttons.
- I wore a lot of kaftans and khalats and tunics and such.
- jodhpur pants
- harem pants
- a lot of different soft t-shirts and tops. Especially one pink peachy colored, long, roomy... loved that one. And the sage colored one my sister made.
- a grey suit with pleated skirt and short jacket
- sweatpant "jeans" - made of sweatpant material, cut like jeans. Cream white. Loved them.
- there was this one layered skirt... made of four layers of soft, thin cotton, in soft apricot, with long belt.
- a skirt in thin jersey, knit, tricot?
- jersey dress black - there has been many of these. :-D There was a time when one could only get black, burgundy or navy clothes in sizes over 46EU :-D
- my red flirty dress... god, I loved that dress!
- my purple waistcoat.
- my medieval white linen dress
- my long green-white cotton skirt.
- my favorite shoes... I wore a lot of cloth shoes, like the Chinese velvet mary janes and tennis shoes. I liked sandals. I like moccasins. Ecco mary janes.
- my trenchcoat
- my swede coat
- my kimono jacket... it was red cotton with gold print and slightly padded
- the duffel coat.

I'm sure there were others, I just don't remember them at the moment :-D
Not important, but there are two specific styles here, one classic and one natural


So, Vivienne Files's Janice starts with a pair of pants. Good quality, neutral, year around, classic model. Like jeans. Both my favorite jeans were "boyfriend" model. Jeans are good all-year pants, and straight jeans have been around since the invention of the item.
Now, I think I want them tan.

The next step on her list is to choose a pair of all-day shoes. She loves loafers and oxfords, very unisex models. Ugly.
I need a good pair of walking shoes, that pass from spring to autumn. I have a pair in mind. Now, originally I had a teal pair in mind, but I would have had to order them from Denmark, and I can get a tan similar pair here in Sweden half the price. I think I take that.

The next step is cardigan and t-shirt. Now, I love twinsets, but for this, I want a simple, white t-shirt. Slightly fitted but roomy, v-neck, very simple.
The cardigan should be one that can be worn as a layering piece; jacket/coat and by itself, so the simplest classic v-neck will do.

Now, one could choose something like Donna Karan's Cozy. I'm a sucker for multi wear things :-D
Now, Donna Karan is a bit boring to my taste.


Her next item is a pair of jeans. Yeah. Another pair of pants. I am not a pants girl. So I am going to take this as a skirt. Now, a neutral kind of skirt, that can be worn year round, and that works in many possible situations.
I used my jersey skirt like that, so that is what it will be.
Now, she is a bit boring - this, too, is neutral, so in my capsule, it should be tan.

Another multiuse piece is the Magical Sari Skirt :-D You can wear it in 100 different ways, as a skirt, tunic, dress, top... probably also as pants or a hat or cape. :-D You really don't need any other clothes. Well, well... Let's move on.

Next item is white button down. That too can be worn in many different styles :-D
Now, mine should be so big that I can do all those fancy wrapping thingies with it, and very soft. I think viscose would be better than linen or cotton.

Now you have 2 bottoms and 3 tops, and you have 12 different outfits
Jeans + t-shirt
Jeans + cardigan
Jeans + t-shirt + cardigan
Skirt + t-shirt
Skirt + cardigan
Skirt + t-shirt + cardigan
Jeans + white shirt
Jeans + t-shirt + white shirt as a layering piece
Jeans + white shirt + cardigan
Skirt + white shirt
Skirt + t-shirt + white shirt as a layering piece
Skirt + white shirt + cardigan
The next step is to accessorize. You have shoes. You need probably a handbag. Perhaps a watch. Earrings? A scarf? A belt? Necklace? Janice suggests a handbag, a watch, a silk scarf, a pair of earrings and a bracelet. All neutrals, fitting the shoes. *sigh*

I am really bad at accessorizing. I have a lot of jewelry, I just don't use any.
What I have used was a pretty, girly watch. A shawl. My phone hanging from my neck. A pair of earrings. A bag.
I have been using a hat and gloves, which might fit my dream of being Miss Fisher :-D

The next step is to add some color. She adds two accent color tops and another silk scarf.
Janice's suggestions are a t-shirt and a shirt/blouse.
I think a pretty blouse and another layering piece. My accent colors are red/coral and teal/aqua. A cute little cardigan in stranded knitting would be nice, using all the colors on my palette. And then some embroidery...

Two more tops add 6 more outfits. (Top, top + cardigan, top + white shirt)
Now, if the other top is a layering piece, you get 4 more outfits. (t-shirt + layer, cardigan + layer, shirt + layer and top + layer)
Janice says one is never going to wear these accent tops together, but I say why not.
Also, if your t-shirt is knit, you can use it, too, as a layering piece, as a pullover or vest.

Next step is another "base" in the second neutral.
That is; pants, comfortable shoes and a cardigan or jacket.
THREE PAIRS OF PANTS!!! Oh, my! She really is not the same kind of gal as I am!
No pants for me. Another skirt that is. Ballet flats... maybe. If I want to embrace my history, this should be a grey jacket with satin collar and buttons :-D

Now you have 3 bottoms and 6 tops, of which 3 are layering items (or I have 4 layering items, but one of them cannot be used as a top by itself.)
That gives us 18 simple outfits, and 45? doubles. It's a lot, anyway.
bottom + t-shirt
bottom + cardigan 1
bottom + t-shirt + cardigan 1
bottom + white shirt
bottom + white shirt + cardigan 1
bottom + t-shirt + white shirt as layer
bottom + accent top
bottom + layering
bottom + t-shirt + layering
bottom + accent top + cardigan
bottom + layering + cardigan
bottom + cardigan + layering
bottom + accent top + white shirt as layer
bottom + white shirt + layering
bottom + layering + white shirt as layer
bottom + t-shirt + cardigan 2
bottom + cardigan 1 + cardigan 2
bottom + cardigan 2 + cardigan 1
bottom + white shirt + cardigan 2
bottom + cardigan 2 + white shirt as layer
bottom + accent top + cardigan 2
bottom + layering + cardigan 2
bottom + cardigan 2 + layering

and this 3 times
- that's 69 outfits with 9 pieces of clothing!
The next step is to go through this wardrobe plan and see that all the chose pieces to fit the requirements set in the beginning.
Do they go together to create outfits you love? Can you change anything to make that happen?
Do they fit your desired image?
Do they fit your body? Climate? Lifestyle?
I'm starting to wonder if a capsule wardrobe fits my lifestyle :-D
I am a bit torn between the image thingy. According to my past, I should choose comfy, loose tops, and ignore the layering, multiple uses and maximum amount of outfits one gets from the pieces. I shouldn't be choosing the pinup girl / sexy bohemian/quaintrelle kind of outfits. I'm torn between the classy, stylish lady and the natural comfy homegirl. *sigh*

Now, I could choose the tan/golden brown/beige neutral as the comfy kind of thing, with a soft, loose, big t-shirt, perhaps even with long sleeves, and a comfy cardigan; jeans and a jersey skirt.
I could choose a bit bohemian, pirate kind of white shirt... or a peasant top kind of thing with embroideries.
I could choose the grey neutral as classy, tailored look, with cigar pants and blazer.
I could use one accent top to be a flirty blouse, and the other to be a comfy sweater.

I will think about that, later. Let's move on for now.

The next step is 2 more tops and a necklace.

An oversize sweater or cardi and a henley. A Kalevala koru necklace.

A skirt, a top and skirt shoes.
Finally :-D I might want to recreate my childhood skating dress by having a short pleated skirt in teal and a sweater in aqua. Though it's spring, so it should be a lighter top. It could be interesting to actually make these two of the same fabric, so that it looks like a dress, even though it isn't.

A casual jacket, top, and shoes.
Everything I have is casual :-D But this has to be a kimono jacket, to honor my red gold one. A long sleeve tee, and light canvas shoes.

A complete outfit (bottom, top, layering top)
A little teal dress. A jersey wrap dress. Now, the best LBD is sleeveless so that it can be used as a pinafore dress.)
A fitted waistcoat.
Another cardigan? A sweater? Or a shawl? Ruana?

The next step is "winter coat, boots, scarf" - so basically seasonal outside wear.
Now, it's spring, and I will be putting my winter coat and boots in storage, and I need spring coat, spring footwear, and spring outside wear accessories :-D
The spring coat is a lighter jacket or coat I can just grab and go. I used to love my trenchcoat. I have a new trenchcoat, but I'm not that fond of it. It's too light and flimsy. It's also ugly color. I think I'd like a red trenchcoat.
I need a pair of sturdy walking shoes that can manage the occasional moistness.
I need a pair of leather gloves and a scarf, and following Miss Fisher lead, I need a hat. A spring hat should be decorated with flowers.

Next step: more accessories; 2 pairs of earrings, brooch, bracelet and necklace

"A bag in one of your accent colors, or in each of your neutrals, isn't outrageous" :-D

What if I don't really do accessories?
Now, Janice is basically saying to do them, anyway. And that is not an answer. The answer is to look at the accessories you already use without being aware of that they are accessories.
Shoes. Most of us use shoes. Nothing stops you from actually considering how to use the shoes to accessorize, in stead of just picking a comfortable pair and that's it.
Some sort of a bag. If you use one, you can use two.
Belt is an accessory.
Eyeglasses.
Anything you have on your hair to keep it out of your face. Hair in itself can be an accessory.
Hats, caps, scarves and other such things one uses to keep the sunlight out of one's face.
Do you have a scarf to keep your neck warm? Nothing stop you from choosing a pretty or beautiful or good looking scarf for that purpose.
Watch? If you are used to wearing a watch, you can add a bracelet.
I'm sure you get the idea.

Considering my past use of accessories, I could get used to wearing a watch and bracelets.
I need glasses.
I want to become a hat wearing person.
I like my scarfs
I love my gloves
I want to remember to use my brooches.
I would need a belt...

I also want more jewelry with turquoises and coral.

So, next step: leisure wear

All my clothes are leisure wear :-D
Two tops and two bottoms.
Now, I think I'd like those jersey jeans back. They were nice.
I could get some sort of culotte shorts - shorts that look like a skirt.
The tops are pretty easy, just square pieces of clothing, with a boatneck... perhaps I could get the French striped boatneck?

I also should start going through my "wear for night and lounging" board and give me a new thingy every month.

Step 15: A Versatile Dress and an Accent Cardigan (+ sandals)

I already have a "versatile dress", so let's add another. It could be red. I did love my red dress and wore it all the time.
I have my sandals, I bought them last year in sale. Brown leather, classic model. Not "skirt sandals", but they will do. I just have to adjust my skirts to my sandals :-D
And another cardi... *sigh*
The problem with most capsule wardrobe "tutorials", suggestions and walk-throughs are very limited. People are trying to give advice that most people can use, and most people are pretty boring with pretty boring lives. Most normal people are OK with creating the "normal person" image, and have a normal, ordinary work. I am not a normal person and I don't want to give that impression either. I am highly abnormal, I am eccentric and flamboyant and I am an artist.

So - let's do a recap. Right now we have the following pieces of clothing on our capsule wardrobe.

- jeans
- t-shirt
- cardigan
- jersey skirt
- white shirt
- flirty blouse
- stranded knit cardi
- cigar pants
- blazer/jacket
- henley
- comfy, oversized cardi
- skater skirt
- top to match the skater skirt
- a kimono jacket
- another long sleeve tee
- dress
- waistcoat
- ruana
- trenchcoat
- French striped boatneck
- some sort of knit top
- sweatpant "jeans"
- culotte shorts
- dress
- cardigan

- accessories and shoes

Firstly, I need to rethink "neutrals". Why wold I need neutrals? I am totally comfortable wearing red all the time. I don't need to fit in, or choose neutrals so that my clothes can be used with each other. So no "first neutral and second neutral" rules for me, thank you.

Now, I do have clothing in neutrals, and in that I need to think a little. I really don't want to be wearing black all the time, even though it suits me and I have a lot of black things. There is that stigma of "big women can only wear black, burgundy and navy", and I want to get rid of it.
The point is that my Spring capsule main colors are red and teal. Not tan and grey.

tan jeans - to make them pop out, I need to decorate them. I embroidered a dragon on my black jeans and added a colorful lining to the legs, so that when they were worn rolled up, they had a colorful cuff. Boyfriend cut. I always used straight jeans most. Roomy, not skinny. And I want a soft waist, or at least not the classic jeans waist. Maybe side closure.

The t-shirts don't need fancying up.

simple V-neck cardigan; a layering piece; jacket/coat or by itself as a top. I used to have a cardi like this when I was 7th to 9th grade. Very simple, but I had made it my own. It was embroidered and I had replaced the buttons. They were all different colors. Now... how to make that pop? Maybe add some metallic threads to the knit. Maybe use different stitches to create some difference. Maybe add some embroideries or ribbons or something.

red jersey skirt - It would be good to embroider it or add applique. It would be good to make it handkerchief hemmed or something else fancy. Different.

Big, classic white button down in viscose, big enough so that I can do all those fancy wrapping thingies with it - maybe a bit bohemian/pirate/gypsy kind of, or like a national costume.

 ruana - I would love it of some very textured but one-colored plaid... maybe some applique, too?

The accessories and shoes:

So... Janice gives us five pairs of shoes... which are basically all the same. Sigh.
I'll have my study walking shoes. They are tan mary janes.
I have my sandals.
I have my red mary janes with heel for skirts
I need light canvas shoes. Preferably a light color, perhaps red or teal.
So - two more pairs... Let's say my boots and my teal fancy girly shoes :-D

Two or more bags. I have my Marimekko messenger bag. I have my trusty small shoulder bag. Now, I would want it in red. Maybe I can sew myself one in red canvas. Or maybe I can fancy it up a little. Or a lot.

I need a pretty, girl watch in bronze.
A couple of bronze bracelets
Two large silk squares that is big enough to allow me to make all those things Hermès suggests one can do with a scarf, like wearing it as a top :-D I suppose the best is to actually paint them myself.
My phone hanging from my neck.
2-3 pairs of earrings.
A Kalevala koru necklace.
Leather gloves
A spring hat. It should be decorated with flowers
I need glasses.
A brooch
A belt

Thursday, January 11, 2018

Ways to wear a cardigan

10 ways to wear a cardigan (though in my mind the mini-skirt and the other skirt are the same thing)

Now I would say that
wearing it open without a belt
wearing it open with a belt
wearing it buttoned down with a belt
wearing it buttoned down without a belt
wearing it over a beltwearing it under a belt
are 6 different ways of wearing a cardigan, but some people do. So - consider that as an option.
Also, you can consider wearing it over the bottom or inside the bottom. 

One way not mentioned on that first list was wearing it backwards as a top

There are also a couple of ideas on this video you could try with your cardigan


And here's another fun video about what you can do with a simple button down shirt :-D