Friday, November 24, 2023

The Classic 5 Piece French Wardrobe

Posted on December 27, 2012 by Jennifer Lee

In my quest to have both a minimalistic and chic wardrobe, I came across the idea of the Classic 5 Piece French Wardrobe. I wonder where this originally started, but can’t find anything about its origins just yet. What I did find, however, is what this is all about. Basically, you start with the basics and build your wardrobe from there with just five classic, stylish, and high-quality pieces each season. The trick is to only buy five per season and no more. This alleviates the impulse buys and the sale rack purchases we all too soon regret. This avoids clutter in your closet and allows you to purchase high-quality garments that will last you for years. It also saves time and theoretically money, since you would not be buying things you do not absolutely love.

While I found quite a few posts on this 5 piece French Wardrobe, there was some conflicting advice and rules. The best one I found is from The Urban List and it is from this website from which I will base my information. The reason I am using this list as opposed to the others I found on various blogs is because this list is newer and it is based off of the wardrobe basics list that Calexico uses, which is a modern and fashionable boutique in Brisbane.

The rules:

Basics don’t count and are always allowed
Accessories don’t count
Shoes do count
Socks and underwear don’t count
All the rest counts

Pretty simple, right?

The Calexico Basics (my choices/substitutions are in parenthesis):

Tops

Black, grey, and white t-shirt
Black, grey, and white tank
Silk shirt/blouse (button down white shirt)
Black dress
Blazer
Simple cashmere sweater (black simple cardigan)

Bottoms

Black trousers (Black skinny pants)
Skinny jeans
Boyfriend jeans
Leather trousers (Black wide leg pants)
Black pencil skirt

Jackets 

Leather jacket (Gray Wool Peacoat)
Trench coat
Winter coat

A complete black suit

Shoes 

Black stilettos
Mid-heeled ankle boots
Flats
Summer sandals
Sneakers

Accessories 

Gold or silver watch
Neutral leather bag
Clutch

Different blogs and websites had a little variation on the basics, so this is my version of what will work for me. From my perspective, when you look at your wardrobe this way in terms of style and basics, you will see the holes right away. For example, I had none of these t-shirt colors in my wardrobe.

Helpful tips:

Choose a neutral base color and stick with that for your shoe and coat choices. I recommend black, especially for achieving the quintessential French look.

From what I have read, French women wear scarves daily. Remember- these don’t count in your seasonal 5 pieces, so choose colorful scarves to accessorize.

Go through your wardrobe first and get rid of all of the clothes you don’t like or don’t wear. Don’t save clothes for a special occasion. If you haven’t worn it in the last year, or hate how it looks on you, get rid of it.

(Now, I don't have the original photos, so I'll use my own to illustrate this. After all, this capsule wardrobe is made after this list. -Ketutar
Also, I replaced the leather pants with another pencil skirt.)



Wednesday, May 17, 2023

"I can't find the right color!"

What to do when you have found your personal color palette, but the fashion industry won't cooperate with you, and you can't find clothing in the right colors?

Carole Jackson in her book Color Me Beautiful said you have to have a long-term plan, so you can slowly fill it, and can buy clothes when your colors are trendy. They will be, sooner or later.

That the high fashion trends aren't your style doesn't much matter, because there will always be classic cut clothes available. When it comes to your basic wardrobe, the items should be classic, so that you can wear the same blazer or pants for decades. Most capsule wardrobes are based on the idea that you can buy only a few special items every year that keep you fashionable. I mean, the fashion jeans in the 70s were flared, but straight-leg jeans were available. You could wear the same straight jeans from the 1950s to the 2020s, just changing accessories and tops, and be fashionable.

Also, the classic cut clothes are usually also better quality.

Carole also says that you need to shop, not for clothes, but purchasers :-D If you find a purchaser who has your coloring, you have struck gold. They will have access to much more than you do, and they will find the items in your colors, and take them into the store, even when the colors might not be trendy right then. Especially if you befriend them. You can also get tips on where to find clothes in the right coloring if you can't find them in her store.

That's another thing one can do, find social media groups of people who share your coloring. They can share where they find the clothes of right colors, and tip you about designers and stores you might not know otherwise.

Another great tip is to find a seamstress who can sew your clothes in the colors and materials you want. The price won't be that much higher, and in some cases, it will be lower. Nevertheless, it's very much worth it. The clothes will be perfect for you AND you will be supporting small, local entrepreneurs and craftspeople. 

You can always learn to sew and knit and make your own clothes. It's very intimidating, but it's not difficult.

You can always dye the clothes. Choose white clothes to dye, or clothes with the "right" undertone. Light blue for cool colors, light yellow for warm colors, because the undertone will always come through. If you are a Spring, don't dye grey clothes and believe to get anything but muted Summer colors. If you are a Winter, don't dye clothes with warm colors, like yellow, orange, tan, or beige, because the results will be Autumn colors. 

Now, until you find the right colors, you will have to do with the wrong ones. Also, it's expensive to change the whole wardrobe at once. Especially when you are to invest in good quality clothes. (Though you might not care about that. Not all do.) The good news is that clothes wear down, and eventually you have to buy a new one, and when you know which colors and styles fit you best, you can buy something that will serve you longer and better. (Yes, I know, there are people who take so good care of their clothes that they are still wearing the things they bought decades ago.)

You can save a lot with a scarf in the right colors closest to your face. Pants, skirts, and shoes don't matter that much, as they are away from your face, but tops can be difficult. Now, if you know how to knit, you can knit yourself tops in the right coloring (even if it's just a vest). You can get simple tops in white (like T-shirts and button-down shirts) and wear them with the right colored scarves and tops.

This is Kate Bosworth, and she's usually classified as Light Spring. The dark, soft green doesn't fit her that well, but let's say she is not Kate, but just an ordinary girl, who bought the top because it's cute and the color works so well on her Summer friend who has about the same coloring as she does. Something as little as jewelry in the right color saves the top. You can help the color a bit by choosing the jewelry or scarf in the same color family - Summer green top, Spring green accessories.
(Also, I find it interesting that it's the same photo - the only thing that differs the two is the color of the jewelry... and I think Kate on the left has brighter hair color, brighter eyes, even thinner arms :-D)

Tuesday, May 16, 2023

Random thoughts

 I have been playing with my colors and styles, again :-D

I decided to scrap the Kibbe styles all together, and go by what my heart says :-D Which is a blend of... a lot of things. 

What I want to address here is the contrast. I made this "value" thing.

Apparently my skin is very pale, my eyes are very dark, and my hair is darker than I thought it is. It used to be very blonde when I was a kid. :-D The contrast was even bigger then, with those dark, dark eyes :-D (They are actually hazel. Hard to see.)


Anyway, the contrast between my eyes and skin is pretty big. But the color contrast is not. The colors of my skin, hair, and eyes are pretty much all the same. :-D (Though hazel counts as green eyes, and they are grey and golden brown - amber, my husband says.) 

I have been going through Imogen Lamport's blog and reading about the contrast. A lot of good information. And it has made me realize that it's not that I can't do patterns, it's that I can't do many colored patterns. Because I don't have many colors in me :-D (Except the eyes, of course.) That means I can do a lot of patterns, but only monochromatic ones :-D There can be a lot of contrast, but only in value. (And then I need to have strong chroma, can't do muted.). (Also, I need dark background color.)

I would look great in the red dress, but not in the one with red flowers and green leaves.
(Well, I'm 54, so maybe not that short :-D)

I have also made some progress about my body shape and how to dress it, and my style preferences :-D

I saw this video, which talks about expanding your body type beyond pears and apples. But the problem there is that they don't care one bit about the shape of hips
I, for example, have high hips that are V shaped. I am widest at hip bone, and then I taper down. I'm literally shaped like a carrot :-D 
Also, I have a short neck, short and wide chest area, and short waist. And big boobs. That are widely set. :-( And rather narrow shoulders. (Carrot, again :-D)
So I think I'll stay with apple :-D


I should need to elongate my neck, widen my shoulders, while narrowing my chest, elongating my waist while shortening my hips, taking in at stomach while adding to my bottom, narrow down my hips on top, but widen them at the bottom. And even though my legs are long, they are also muscular and thick... 
I think I'll just ignore the proportions and wear what ever I feel like wearing. Be it tons of scarfs, necklaces, bracelets, rings and belts. (Oh, rings and bracelets? I have rather large hands and stout arms, which makes me look like a gladiator with sausages as fingers when I wear bracelets and rings. Not that pretty, huh :-D)

I know, it's rather contradictory to be saying that I'll ignore all this, while talking about things that I'm going to ignore... :-D

Anyway, I was looking into Suzanne Caygill's color theory, and realized it's based on one self and what colors work. That every person has their own color palette, and there really aren't any seasons or so. And it is basically "wear the colors on you and what ever you like, it will be great." 
You know, most people, who decorate their homes as they like to, use instinctively the colors that work best as clothing as well :-D So, I'll just look at my home decoration ideas and inspiration, and make it into outfits :-D 
(It's funny because that has been my philosophy the whole time - "your shade of purple is the shade of purple you like the best". "Wear the style that best pleases you". "Copy the celebrities who dress like you'd dress".

Sunday, June 5, 2022

Vivienne Files IV

 This is part IV, the last part, of me adjusting one of Janice's capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

I'm in no way saying I'm improving her work, that would be impossible, I think, I'm just adjusting it to fit my taste :-D

Now, this last part adds four more pieces to the wardrobe. Two more tops, a dress, and one more bottom. 

Again, I'm changing most of her choices :-D


I "approved" just the pink T, I exchanged the "cute" top with a striped boatneck (pink stripes :-D), and the green lounge pants with green jeans, and then I chose a pink shirt dress instead of another cardigan. 

I saw this amazing video about what you can do with a shirtdress, and decided I have to get one :-D (The one I chose isn't optimal, because it needs to be open and buttoned down all the way down.

So... that's the wardrobe.


So, the outfits:

1. white T, white skirt
2. white T, white cardi, white skirt
3. white T, white pants
4. white T, white cardi, white pants
5. white cardi backwards, white pants
6. white cardi backwards, white skirt
7. brown top, brown pants
8. brown top, brown pants, brown shirt
9. brown shirt, brown pants
10. brown top, brown skirt
11. brown top, brown skirt, brown shirt
12. brown shirt, brown skirt 
13. white T, brown pants
14. white T, white cardi, brown pants
15. white cardi backwards, brown pants
16. white T, brown skirt
17. white T, white cardi, brown skirt
18. white cardi backwards, brown skirt
19. brown top, white pants
20. brown top, white pants, brown shirt
21. brown shirt, white pants
22. brown top, white skirt
23. brown top, white skirt, brown shirt
24. brown shirt, white skirt
25. white T, brown shirt, white skirt
26. white T, brown shirt, white pants
27. white T, brown shirt, brown skirt
28. white T, brown shirt, brown pants
29. brown top, white cardi, white skirt
30. brown top, white cardi, white pants
31. brown top, white cardi, brown skirt
32. brown top, white cardi, brown pants
33. brown shirt, white cardi, white skirt
34. brown shirt, white cardi, white pants
35. brown shirt, white cardi, brown skirt
36. brown shirt, white cardi, brown pants
37. brown top, green cardi, white skirt
38. brown top, green cardi, white pants
39. brown top, green cardi, brown skirt
40. brown top, green cardi, brown pants
41. white T, green cardi, white skirt
42. white T, green cardi, white pants
43. white T, green cardi, brown skirt
44. white T, green cardi, brown pants
45. brown shirt, green cardi, white skirt
46. brown shirt, green cardi, white pants
47. brown shirt, green cardi, brown skirt
48. brown shirt, green cardi, brown pants
49. green cardi, white skirt
50. green cardi, white pants
51. green cardi, brown skirt
52. green cardi, brown pants
53. brown top, pink cardi, white skirt
54. brown top, pink cardi, white pants
55. brown top, pink cardi, brown skirt
56. brown top, pink cardi, brown pants
57. white T, pink cardi, white skirt
58. white T, pink cardi, white pants
59. white T, pink cardi, brown skirt
60. white T, pink cardi, brown pants
61. brown shirt, pink cardi, white skirt
62. brown shirt, pink cardi, white pants
63. brown shirt, pink cardi, brown skirt
64. brown shirt, pink cardi, brown pants
65. pink cardi, white skirt
66. pink cardi, white pants
67. pink cardi, brown skirt
68. pink cardi, brown pants
Uh, I just can't write all of these!

You'll get 17 more with green pants

then you'll get 25 more with each top - the print top alone, with the white cardi, brown shirt, green cardi, and pink cardi, with all five bottoms; the pink shirt alone, with white... you get the idea. 
That is 110 different outfits. 

Then add the shirt dress. You can use it with all the layering pieces, as a layering piece itself, as a big shirt with pants (and with skirts, too, if you want to, even though it might not work too well.)

AND then consider the multiple uses of some garments. I have added some videos on how to make several different kinds of tops of the button-down shirt and even a skirt. You can use the skirts as dresses, or as miniskirts. You can style the shirtdress in different ways, for example, a skirt. 

My problem with this wardrobe is... I don't think the green and the brown go together :-D



Saturday, June 4, 2022

Vivienne Files III

 This is part II of me adjusting one of Janice's capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

The next part is "Mileage 4", which are tops. I have used the same tops Janice chose, with one exception. I like the colors of the Ralph Lauren T, and I love the fact it's a T-shirt, but... I hate it :-D I tried to find a printed top with green and pink on it, that would go with all the other pieces, and this is the closest I could get. It's not good, but it's OK.


With these 12 pieces of clothing, you can create 8x4 different single layer outfits, and 4x4x4 different layered outfits - or even more, considering that the button-down shirt can be used as the first and second layer, and the cardigans can all be used as cardigans and as sweaters (worn backward). Now, if one had some vests or waistcoats here, those could be used as layering pieces or tops. The thing with capsule wardrobes is that most pieces should have multiuse, and everything should go with everything else, so that you really can get the 32+ different outfits.

Here's some outfit suggestions with accessories. I've kept it down, only 4 pieces for every outfit :-D

There's a Hermès scarf with the first outfit, and another Vera scarf with the last one. I'm starting to wonder if the teal in the Vera horse scarf is too teal, and it should be more green. 


Vivienne Files II

This is part II of me adjusting one of Janice's capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

The next four items in her 4x4 capsule wardrobe are Expansion Four, which is basically a repetition of the first Core Four, except in another color. I chose golden brown as my second neutral. (I absolutely love this golden sandy beige, or camel, or caramel. Such a delicious color.)

I chose a pair of jeans, another simple A-line skirt, a button-down shirt and a sleeveless t-shirt.

The amount of outfits grows exponentially with this. I can have all the 5 top options with both jeans and skirt, that is 10 more outfits, and then I can use the t and shirt with the four bottoms, and get 8 more outfits, and then I can mix the tops - brown t with white cardi, white t with brown shirt, brown shirt with the cardigan, with all four bottoms. 12 more outfits. That makes 36 outfits from 8 pieces of clothing.

A button down is a very versatile piece of clothing. It, too, can be used as a light jacket, and worn in dozens of different ways, made into a skirt, etc.

Now, accessories. This is a spring-time wardrobe, and "they" say the shoes one needs for spring/summer are:

- slip-in sandals
- strappy sandals
- all ground sandals
- canvas shoes or sneakers
- walking shoes, oxfords, loafers, something like that
- ballerinas
- booties
- colorful pumps


Now, for this wardrobe, let's reduce the number of shoes to four pairs. Sandals, ballerinas that will pass as finer shoes (so that you don't need strappy sandals or pumps), then two pairs of the sort of shoes you most often wear/need. Like sneakers and loafers, or rubber boots and espadrilles, etc.

Janice classifies shoes as "leather" in her "accessorize by 4s". There are 2x4 spots for leather accessories in her grid. She usually fills these spots with shoes and bags, but I'd like to put in at least one belt.

Another thing Janice loves is earrings :-D I find it amusing that her style is otherwise rather "manly" - she loves loafers and laced shoes, unisex flats, and rather unisex tops as well. There aren't many "girly" things in her wardrobes. But then comes the earrings. She loves earrings. In reality, earrings aren't that important. Suze Orman said in Oprah Show that a woman needs only one pair of earrings - diamond studs that can be used with everything. They are simple enough to be worn in an office and flashy enough to be worn at parties. 

In the first part of this "amuse l'esprit" I accessorized one of the outfits with a pair of earrings, a necklace, a belt, and ankle booties, so I think I'll honor Vivienne Files and accessorize one outfit with sneakers, earrings, scarf and bag :-D


I chose canvas messenger bag, amber studs, and this absolute amazing Vera scarf with a white horse on green bottom and some pink roses. 



Wednesday, June 1, 2022

Vivienne Files, part I

 I adore Vivienne Files. Except that her taste in clothes is very different from mine, and also, I'm not a businesswoman :-D Also, I suspect she's Summer because those awful dusty colors keep creeping in to her wardrobe suggestions :-D (I mean, I hate those colors, mauve and taupe are the ugliest colors I know. But that's just my opinion. It's totally fine if you like them. And I adore Janice's job even when I disagree with her on taste.)

So, I am adjusting one of her capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

I like the idea of a cream/pink/green spring wardrobe, and I like her first outfit with the pink crepe blouse, pink cardigan and cream skirt. I don't like the skirt much, though, so I replace it with a longer A-line skirt.

Now, her 4x4 capsule wardrobe idea starts with a "core four". That is, two tops and two bottoms, and preferably the two tops can be layered, that is, one is a jacket or cardigan. I love twinsets, because, as Vivienne Westwood says, they can be styled in many ways. You can use the cardigan as a sweater wearing it with buttons on the back, and it works as a light jacket. 


With these four pieces, you'll have already 10 different outfits. You see how wearing the t-shirt outside the bottom or tucked in, creates a totally different impression. I've added some accessories to the last one to give you an idea of how to diversify these outfits even more. 

Basically, you could choose a V-neck t-shirt and wear that back and front, and thus give yourself a couple more outfits.

And if you choose a jersey skirt with an elastic waistband, you could hitch it up over your breasts, and get a miniskirt, or wear it on your hips and get a longer skirt. Or, you could use it as a strapless dress. It would look very nice with a belt and the cardigan.
But - I am all for multiuse garments and multi-using garments. There's a hack on how to wear a long, wide sweater with a big neckline as a lot of things :-D I think I have posted it here.

Some things need to be said about capsule wardrobes:
- it is primarily meant for working women who need a classic, moderate, basic wardrobe. So it might look boring. It is boring. You should practically be able to wear the same clothes for decades. This wardrobe would have worked in the 80s just as well as now. You are to express yourself with the accessories. So, a capsule wardrobe idea doesn't work for everyone. 
- you need to choose colors that fit you, and cuts and styles that fit your body. Now, there's a lot that has been said about body types and shapes and personal colors, and most of it is... well... not BS, but you can take it with a pinch of salt. Or leave it. The most important thing is that YOU feel good in the clothes you are wearing. That YOU like the colors of your clothes. That is more important than any color analysis or style guide. You have the shape you have whatever you choose to wear, and no "disguise" and "diversion" hides it. If you have a tummy and want to wear belts, wear belts. 

So, let's talk about the accessories. Janice has written about that, too, in her excellent blog. For example, this: ADDING ACCESSORIES TO A WARDROBE: START WITH ART – SUNLIGHT ON THE ROAD, PONTOISE BY PISSARRO

I love accessories. The thing is that you can accessorize every bit of your body. There are shoes, belts, bags, hats, scarves, jewelry for ears, neck, arms, legs, and other things. 

Now, the classic style says you shouldn't over-accessorize. Take a look at yourself before you go out and remove one item. Or count the "points". I'll use this photo of elborn_doris to illustrate this point counting thing. (I learned it from a style guide from 1960s)

sunglasses 1p
earrings 1p
t-shirt 1p
cardigan 1p
belt 1p
slacks 1p
watch 1p
ring 1p
bag 1p
shoes 1p
colors: 
white, ecru, tan, red, gold: 5p
details: 
belt buckle 1p
bag details 1p
pant cuffs 1p
--------------------------------------------------
18 points

Now, the style guide says one shouldn't have more than 12 points, and 10 is better. In my mind, she looks very good, and I don't think she needs to cut down points, but - according to the book, she should. For example, removing earrings and rings. Choosing a belt with a buckle of the same material as the belt. Choose either white, ecru, tan, or gold shoes. Maybe a tan cardigan, just a lighter shade. (That cardigan is a lighter shade of coffee, and thus a whole different color from the tan of the bag and belt. Which aren't really the same color either, but closer so that at first sight they look the same.) Uncuffed pants. 

Frankly, I don't fully agree with this, because I'm a maximalist :-D I wouldn't think worse of her if she added things, like a scarf, a hat, more bracelets, a corsage, a couple of brooches... :-D

Anyway, Janice continues accessorizing in fours. 
1: earrings
2: bracelets and watches
3: necklaces and brooches
4: scarves
5: leather - shoes, and bags (2x4)

I chose to accessorize the cream outfit with a belt, suede ankle boots, a necklace, and earrings. I would add a bag (suede envelope) and a scarf (square silk with pink, green, and cream).