Strong,
straight bone structure that is elongated, wide, or broad; body type
tends to muscular width or sinewy length; facial bones are strong and
prominent but widely blunt or asymmetrical (not narrow and sharp);
facial features are strong but narrow (not round and lush).
SHAPE:
Bold geometrics with rounded edges.
Oversized asymmetrics with rounded edges.
Rectangles, oblongs, and irregular shapes.
Avoid:
Sharp-edged geometrics.
Ornate and intricate shapes.
Symmetrical shapes.
LINE AND SILHOUETTE:
Unconstructed silhouettes.
Bold, sweeping lines --elongated and straight.
Relaxed, unstructured outlines.
Strong vertical and horizontal lines (T-shaped).
Avoid:
Sharp, severe, or still silhouettes.
Hourglass silhouettes.
Symmetrical silhouettes.
Sharply straight lines.
Intricate, delicate lines.
Elongated vertical line with strong shoulders as the basis of your ensemble.
FABRIC:
Texture in all weights, from very light to very heavy, is the most exciting way to express yourself through fabric.
A
rough surface is always preferable to a flat surface.
Very shiny
fabrics are excellent for evening, if the weight is kept to the heavy
side (stiff satins, brocades, metallics, etc).
Daytime sheen should be in texture only (raw silk, shantung).
All leathers, suedes, and plush fabrics are excellent.
Draped fabrics must be ultrathick and heavy.
Knits should be thick, rough, bulky, heavy, or ultraplush.
Skinny and ribbed knits are possible in oversized garments.
Loosely woven fabrics.
Avoid:
Ultrasheer, flimsy or clingy fabrics.
Stiff, flat fabrics.
Tightly woven fabrics.
Delicate, shiny fabrics.
DETAIL
Detail should be bold, oversized, irregular, asymmetric, and relaxed.
Shoulders should always be broad and extended, but not particularly sharp.
Necklines
should be loose and open, always unconfined (boatnecks, camisoles,
simple slashes, oversized cowls, open notched collars, etc.).
Waist should be elongated.
A dropped waist does this best, although a "bloused-over" effect at the waist is also possible.
Be
very careful with waist emphasis. It is rarely helpful to you, even if
your waist is small, because it destroys the strong, vertical line that
is the core of your silhouette.
Gathers, folds, sashes, etc.,
should be ultra deep and long--asymmetrical in shape, and low on the
body--preferably from the hips down.
Sleeves should be simple and straight, or very full and sweeping.
They should always be unrestrictive to movement.
Pleats should be soft, low, and deep (inverted or kick-style, or stitched down through the midsection).
Trim should be bold, oversized, and asymmetrical or clean and minimal.
Avoid:
Sharp, tailored detail.
Severe, geometric detail.
Small, symmetrical detail.
Ornate, intricate detail.
Animated, "cute" detail (perky and crisp).
COLOR:
Your use of color should be bold and vivid, with
rich, vibrant tones the most exciting intensities for you. Wild and
unusual color combinations express your free spirit most effectively,
although rich neutrals in those lush textures you wear so well are also
nice, particularly if you use vivid accents. Monochromatic schemes tend
to be a little dull on you, although you may want to go with one major
color that is accentuated by another bright shade.
Avoid:
Multicolored
splashes (too perky for you). Monochromatic schemes without vivid
accessories. Dull colors unless they are executed in rich textures.
PRINTS
should be bold and vivid, expressed in abstract geometrics, irregular
shapes, or soft-edge asymmetrics. They should also have a blended edge
as opposed to a sharp edge.
Color combinations should be dramatically vivid, but the colors should fade into each other instead of being crisply defined.
Wild
animal prints, tropical prints, and any highly original motif that is
both sophisticated and earthy, with a touch of wit, may all be used with
ease.
Avoid:
Sharp geometrics.
Small symmetrical prints.
Watercolor florals.
Small, animated prints.
Intricate or ornate prints.
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