Thursday, November 20, 2014

Flamboyant Natural from head to toes: clothes



SEPARATES are extremely exciting on you and should make up the bulk of your wardrobe. A mix-and-match effect is excellent, but be careful always to maintain an elongated vertical line with strong shoulders as the basis of your ensemble. Artfully mixing textures is especially effective.

JACKETS should be long, unconstructed and loose.
Relaxed cuts with broad padded shoulders are best.
Length should be from top of the thigh down (never shorter).
Simple oversized detail is best: large lapels or no lapels, big roomy pockets, easy double-breasted styles (worn open).

Avoid:
Severely tailored jackets.
Symmetrically tailored jackets.
Flouncy jackets.
Cropped, fitted jackets.

Jackets should be long, unconstructed and loose. Length should be from top of the thigh down (never shorter). Monochromatic schemes tend to be a little dull on you, although you may want to go with one major color that is accentuated by another bright shade.

SKIRTS:
Skirts should be long and straight but not severe.
Oversized and full skirts with deep folds are possible, as long as they are extreme, wide in shape, and worn with big tops.
Short straight skirts are fun and funky - again, worn with oversized tops.
Slits, pockets, kick pleats, buttons, plackets, etc, are good, but any draping or shirring should be kept low and loose (from the hips down) and no detail should ever inhibit mobility.
Hemlines are longish on straight skirts (except for funky minis, etc), and should fall at the top of the calf or longer.
Hemslines on full skirts are uneven and should be very long (bottom of the calf is the minimum length).

Avoid:
Long, pencil-slim styles.
Short symmetrical styles.
Flouncy styles.
Smooth, flared styles.

PANTS:
Pants should be roomy and full.
Man-tailored styles that are slightly wide and relaxed in construction.
Deep pleats, full pockets, and wide, soft cuffs are excellent detail, as are pocket-flaps and plackets.
Satiny evening pants that are wide and full are also excellent.

Avoid:
Sharply tailored and fitted pants.
Overly draped pants with tapered legs.


BLOUSES:
Blouses should be roomy and full with simple detail and relaxed construction.
Wide and horizontal cuts with clean necklines that are unrestricted are best.
Camisoles are very useful under jackets.

Avoid:
Severely tailored blouses.
Overly fitted blouses.
Overly ornate blouses with intricate or fussy detail.
Blouses with high, stiff or constricted necklines.

SWEATERS:
Sweaters should be long, roomy, and boldly cut.
Thick, heavy, rough, or ultraplush knits are best.
Longhaired or shaggy knits are also good.
Patterns should be bold and oversized.
Skinny knits should be extremely oversized.
All sweaters should have shoulder pads.

Avoid:
Lightweight, clingy knits.
Fluffy knits.
Cropped sweaters.
Symmetrical, fitted styles such as crew-necked shetlands.

DRESSES: Dresses should be bold and sweeping.
Broad shoulders and an elongated waist (usually dropped) are best.
They are relaxed in outline and shape, and may be either very narrow and slinky or wide and full cut.
Shirring, draping, applique, etc., should be kept low and executed in bold, abstract patterns.

Avoid:
Flouncy dresses with excess detail and ornate, fussy trim.
Severly tailored dresses.
Overly fitted dresses with crisp or animated detail.

EVENING WEAR: 

Bold shapes with sweeping lines.Shoulder emphasis.
Easy necklines.
Bold prints.
Glitzy fabric.
Smooth fabric.
Slightly plush fabric.
Ultradrapable fabric (matte jersey, etc.)
Either minimal detail or bold, broad detail.

Broad-shoulder gowns with dropped waists
Widely cut, unconstructed gowns of draped fabric (matte jersey, silk, etc.)
Evening pants ensembles (long, bed jackets with wide-legged satin pajama pants, etc.)
Bare gowns with bold jewelry
Evening sarongs
Evening caftans
Evening sweater dresses with glitz

------------------------------

Flamboyant Natural from head to toes: accessories

ACCESSORIES:Accessories should be bold and angular with soft edges.

Shoes and bags, coming from the Yang side, should generally be angular.
However, once again we want to avoid sharp edges and keep the detail minimal.
Any unstructured shapes will always work best for you.

SHOES: 
Shoes tailored and angular, but have soft edges instead of sharp ones.  (See how this translate to the soft edges in facial structure?)
Flats can be clean and simple or man-tailored and slightly funky.  Evening sandals should be very bare.

Avoid:
Overly delicate, strappy, and intricate shoes with trim. Plain pumps.

BAGS: 
Should be large and unconstructed or large and cleanly tailored. Metallic box-shaped bags are excellent for evening. briefcases should be moderate width to elegantly narrow, and have firm construction.

BELTS:
Should be original and unique: sashes, ties, metallics, ropes, etc. Wide belts with extremely bold buckles (hand carved, asymmetric, etc) are possible.

Avoid:
Small symmetrical belts. Antique, intricate belts.

HATS: 
Should be Oversized, bold, and unconstructed. Fur hats should be large and shaggy.

Avoid:
Severe, man tailored styles. Small ornate styles. Crisp, perky hats.

HOSIERY: 
A flesh toned stocking is your best bet for daytime, suited looks. Colored stockings are funky on you and give a wild, free, casual effect. Ribbed stockings , all textures, and vivid opaque colors are all excellent for fun. To retain your strong vertical silhouette, be sure to pick up the stocking color elsewhere in your outfit and accesories when you use the "bright leg" look. Dark, sheer stockings aer sexy in the evening on you, but they can seem overpowering during the day. Likewise, a light leg where the stocking and shoe are one or two shades lighter than the skirt can be elegant in a very special outfit (very "garden party") but it can be too fussy for everyday wear, as it will be too matronly on you!

Flamboyant Natural - Soft Yang w/Blunt Edges

Strong, straight bone structure that is elongated, wide, or broad; body type tends to muscular width or sinewy length; facial bones are strong and prominent but widely blunt or asymmetrical (not narrow and sharp); facial features are strong but narrow (not round and lush).

SHAPE:
Bold geometrics with rounded edges.
Oversized asymmetrics with rounded edges.
Rectangles, oblongs, and irregular shapes.

Avoid:
Sharp-edged geometrics.
Ornate and intricate shapes.
Symmetrical shapes.

LINE AND SILHOUETTE:
Unconstructed silhouettes. 
Bold, sweeping lines --elongated and straight.
Relaxed, unstructured outlines.
Strong vertical and horizontal lines (T-shaped).

Avoid:
Sharp, severe, or still silhouettes.
Hourglass silhouettes.
Symmetrical silhouettes.
Sharply straight lines.
Intricate, delicate lines.

Elongated vertical line with strong shoulders as the basis of your ensemble.

FABRIC:
Texture in all weights, from very light to very heavy, is the most exciting way to express yourself through fabric.
A rough surface is always preferable to a flat surface.
Very shiny fabrics are excellent for evening, if the weight is kept to the heavy side (stiff satins, brocades, metallics, etc).
Daytime sheen should be in texture only (raw silk, shantung).
All leathers, suedes, and plush fabrics are excellent.
Draped fabrics must be ultrathick and heavy.
Knits should be thick, rough, bulky, heavy, or ultraplush.
Skinny and ribbed knits are possible in oversized garments.
Loosely woven fabrics.

Avoid:
Ultrasheer, flimsy or clingy fabrics.
Stiff, flat fabrics.
Tightly woven fabrics.
Delicate, shiny fabrics.

DETAIL

Detail should be bold, oversized, irregular, asymmetric, and relaxed.
Shoulders should always be broad and extended, but not particularly sharp.
Necklines should be loose and open, always unconfined (boatnecks, camisoles, simple slashes, oversized cowls, open notched collars, etc.).
Waist should be elongated.
A dropped waist does this best, although a "bloused-over" effect at the waist is also possible.
Be very careful with waist emphasis. It is rarely helpful to you, even if your waist is small, because it destroys the strong, vertical line that is the core of your silhouette.
Gathers, folds, sashes, etc., should be ultra deep and long--asymmetrical in shape, and low on the body--preferably from the hips down.
Sleeves should be simple and straight, or very full and sweeping.
They should always be unrestrictive to movement.
Pleats should be soft, low, and deep (inverted or kick-style, or stitched down through the midsection).
Trim should be bold, oversized, and asymmetrical or clean and minimal.

Avoid:
Sharp, tailored detail.
Severe, geometric detail.
Small, symmetrical detail.
Ornate, intricate detail.
Animated, "cute" detail (perky and crisp).
  
COLOR:
Your use of color should be bold and vivid, with rich, vibrant tones the most exciting intensities for you. Wild and unusual color combinations express your free spirit most effectively, although rich neutrals in those lush textures you wear so well are also nice, particularly if you use vivid accents. Monochromatic schemes tend to be a little dull on you, although you may want to go with one major color that is accentuated by another bright shade.

Avoid:
Multicolored splashes (too perky for you). Monochromatic schemes without vivid accessories. Dull colors unless they are executed in rich textures.

PRINTS should be bold and vivid, expressed in abstract geometrics, irregular shapes, or soft-edge asymmetrics. They should also have a blended edge as opposed to a sharp edge.
Color combinations should be dramatically vivid, but the colors should fade into each other instead of being crisply defined.
Wild animal prints, tropical prints, and any highly original motif that is both sophisticated and earthy, with a touch of wit, may all be used with ease.

Avoid:
Sharp geometrics.
Small symmetrical prints.
Watercolor florals.
Small, animated prints.
Intricate or ornate prints.

Flamboyant Natural example from Kibbe's book 'Metamorphosis'


Marcia is a large woman with big bones and slightly wide, blunt features, (strong Yang with blunt edges). When she came to my studio, she had some difficulty understanding that her largeness was an asset rather than the liability many Flamboyant Naturals are brainwashed into accepting as their lot. To me, largeness equals drama, and broad bones simply provide more room for displaying exciting clothes and accessories! I set out to help Marcia realize the stunning potential her strong physicality suggested.

My prescription for her metamorphosis: Create an appearance that is bold, free, and wild, filled with drama, life, and vitality. Her clothing shapes are strong geometrics with blunt edges (not sharp). Their outlines are relaxed and unconstructed, with sturdy accessories. Her jewelry is big, bulky, and extremely artistic. Lightweight textures layer well and give an exciting quality that adds enormous interest to the fabric.

Marcia's naturally curly hair is layered into a loose mane, lightly blown for maximum fullness and freedom, which is in keeping with her fresh and bold total look. Her hair had been tinted into a light strawberry, a few shades lighter than her original color. I felt she needed a bit more strength here, so we made the color slightly deeper and richer, turning it into a light auburn instead.

Marcia's makeup, chosen from a clear, yellow-based palette, complements her warm, vibrant coloring. The products are primarily matte, with smoky neutrals brightened by a hint of strong color and blended into softly angular shapes.

Vibrant, alive, bold, and filled with warmth and power, Marcia is now clearly visible as the joyous free spirit she truly is!

Flamboyant Natural - physical profile

(Natural with a Dramatic undercurrent)

NOTE: The following information should be taken as a broad outline of what makes a Flamboyant Natural. It is the overall combination of the strong Yang with blunt edges (bold, strong physicality combined with a free spirit) that creates this Image Identity category. Therefore, slight deviation here or there is always possible and should not be worried over if it does not upset your Yin/Yang balance.

Height:

Moderate to very tall, usually 5 feet 5 inches and over.

Bone structure:

Large and angular with blunt edges.
Broad and square bones.
Wide shoulders.
Long arms and legs.
Large hands and feet (usually somewhat wide, but they may also be narrow, with long fingers and toes).
Broad or prominent facial contours (nose, cheeks, jaw - blunt, not sharp).

Body type:

Straight and angular (broad, not sharp).
Arms and legs tend toward musculature.
Bust and hips tend to be flat or straight (unless very overweight).

Facial features:

Broad, blunt and open.
Eyes may be very large and open or very straight and small.
Lips will be straight and slightly thin.
Cheeks will usually be taut, unless overweight.

Hair:
Tends toward extreme textures: either very straight and fine, or very thick and coarsely wavy/curly.

Coloring:
Any coloring is possible (warm or cool, high-contrast or blended), although Flamboyant Naturals tend to have skin that either freckles or suntans quite easily.

If overweight:
Body tends to become square and stocky, and the face becomes fleshy and puffy. Extreme excess weight will collect primarily from the waist down.

A Flamboyant Natural will not:
*Have a voluptuous body type with a curvy bust and hip-line
*Have an hourglass figure
*Have delicate facial features with small or sharp bones
*Have exotic facial features
*Be extremely petite
*Be symmetrical in body type, bone structure or facial features
*Have a sharp or extremely narrow bone structure

Kibbe's prime Flamboyant Natural celebrity- Shirley MacLaine


Kibbe's Flamboyant Natural: Soft Yang with Blunt Edges

Prime Celebrity Example: Shirley MacLaine

Your position on the Yin/Yang scale is: strong Yang with blunt edges (not sharp).

Physically, you are broad or long, and angular. Your features are prominent and strong, without being sharp or severe. Innately, you are bold, charismatic, innovative, creative, and impulsive, totally devoted to action. You are also open, warm, friendly, and not at all reserved-- very approachable.

You will definitely want to read both the Natural and Dramatic sections of this book, and you will find yourself identifying at times with elements of each. However, please remember, you are not an equal combination of the two categories. 
Always bear in mind that you are a Natural first and foremost!
Your Dramatic undercurrent should always be used as an afterthought to further spice-up and add bold strokes to your appearance. It is not a substitution. It is an addition to express that extra bit of Yang present in your being.

To express your strong Yang with blunt edges total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as : Free Spirit Chic.

Your silhouette is boldly unconstructed, composed of oversized or irregular geometric shapes with soft edges (not sharp).
Lines are relaxed and sweeping, always executed in bold strokes, with an emphasis on the strongly vertical and strongly horizontal.

Stiff tailoring and severe lines should be left by the wayside, for they will be extremely cold and stark on you, totally out of keeping with your warmth and openness. They will also make you appear awkward and gawky, for you have too much broadness to be successfully encompassed by sleek and narrow clothing.

Detail should be plain and simple. Nothing fussy or overdone would be in keeping with your Natural sensibilities.
Loose and uncluttered necklines (boat necks, large cowls, deep V's, etc.) and simple lapels, cuffs, and hemlines are the foundation of your look.
Shoulders will always be broad, although here again they should not be sharp.

Your accessories, however, should be extremely bold. Here is where your Dramatic undercurrent gets to have free reign! Oversized and exotic necklaces, earrings, wrist cuffs, and the like, are stunning on you.
Your wild passion is especially well expressed by striking ethnic pieces, which are considered works of art. The only rule is that the shapes are always chunky-- geometrics that have soft edges or are irregularly shaped. Extremely large costume jewelry that is offbeat and funky is also a nice way of expressing your raucous sense of humor.

Shoes and bags, coming from the Yang side, should generally be angular. However, once again we want to avoid sharp edges and keep the detail minimal. Any unstructured shapes will always work best for you.

Your hairstyle should combine high-style sophistication with tousled freedom. Layering is always necessary, which provides the freshness and avoids a sharp outline. The overall shape of the cut is geometric, but it must never be hard-edged or severe! Asymmetry is possible, but an overly stylized approach will seem very artificial and phony on you-- stuffy is another way of putting it! Depending on the texture of your hair, it can be either long or short.
If your hair is very fine and wispy (which may have come from the extra yang you inherited), a short cut that is layered off the face is best.
If your hair is thick and full, by all means go for the "lion's mane" look if you have the courage!
One word of caution: If your hair is of the ultrathin variety, don't try to make it appear thicker with perms and waves. They'll only give you a scraggly look. Far better to layer it around the face in the shorter cut, which gives more of an illusion of volume.

Makeup should be strongly contoured in shape, emphasizing strong eyes, strong lips, strong cheekbones, but not overly colorful.
An exotic eye makeup is a nice touch, but avoid colors that are too artificial-looking and excess glitz.
On the other hand, makeup that is too minimal in effect is very unsophisticated on you. Your head-to-toe look-- bold and sweeping, uncluttered with exotic accessories-- requires the extra effort here to be completed in the most polished and sophisticated manner.

This is the best way for the world to see you at your charismatic best. We always want to know that you are a risk-taker and an adventurer, someone who will always have an original approach to anything you encounter in life.

Your stark quality becomes evident when you clearly express your bold and daring nature as well as your warm and open personality in your appearance. When you dare to express the full range of your strength and flexibility, you are utterly approachable and perfectly sophisticated at the same time!

Your passion excites us, your openness attracts us, and your powerful charisma inspires us. Become comfortable with these qualities to the point where they effortlessly flow from you. Express them in your appearance with delight!

Then, we are the most captive audience you could possibly receive. We are absolutely dying to know "which mountain you'll be moving next"-- and believe me, once your free spirit is clearly visible, we'll be lining up to help you move it!

Flamboyant Natural celebrities

The following list is meant to help give you a clearer picture of what a Flamboyant Natural can be when she is visually defined. It is not meant to suggest that the women included always dress to their best advantage, so please be careful when you view pictures of them. Because every human being is truly an individual, all Flamboyant Naturals have unique qualities that set them apart from everyone else! Therefore, concentrate on discovering the continuity that ties these celebrities together. I think you'll find that they each share a very wild and fresh physical beauty, along with a very strong-willed, powerful, and creative essence.



Shirley MacLaine, Lynn Redgrave, Colleen Dewhurst, Eve Arden, Carly Simon, 
Lucie Arnaz, Linda Evans, Princess Diana, Farrah Fawcett.

Flamboyant Natural from head to toes: jewelry

"Your accessories, however, should be extremely bold. Here is where your Dramatic undercurrent gets to have free reign! Oversized and exotic necklaces, earrings, wrist cuffs, and the like, are stunning on you.
Your wild passion is especially well expressed by striking ethnic pieces, which are considered works of art. The only rule is that the shapes are always chunky-- geometrics that have soft edges or are irregularly shaped. Extremely large costume jewelry that is offbeat and funky is also a nice way of expressing your raucous sense of humor."

"Her jewelry is big, bulky, and extremely artistic."

"Your jewelry is one of the most important elements of your entire look. It shows your sophistication as well as giving you the chance to express your creativity. Bold, heavy pieces are essential to you.
Chunky shapes that are thick, rough, or asymmetric are always necessary.
"Wearable art" that looks as if you picked it up at an expensive gallery, or on a journey overseases, is excellent.
(Anything that seems as though it was designed by an artists, or creatively crafted, falls into this category as well.)
Your version of conservative jewelry is thick and chunky metal in irregular shapes or shoft-edged geometrics.
Your version of glamourous jewelry is wildly executed "faux jewel" pieces -- very sophiticated works of art!
Funky costume jewelry is fun for you, but it's for your casual look.

Just remember to keep it big and bold.

(Now, all of these are necklaces, but the focal point of FN is on the hips - so it doesn't make any sense to put all this above the waistline... it should be on the hip height - as rings and bangles, as hip belt buckles, as brooches fastened on trousers or skirt or low waistband... Sounds like bellydance belts would work for FN extremely well... )




Avoid:

Delicate, antique jewelry
Ornate, intricate jewelry.


sharp-edged geometrics.

Small, symmetrical pieces.

"No jewelry" of minimal looks.

Flamboyant Natural from head to toes: hair and makeup

HAIR should be loose, relaxed and free.
A tousled effect is best, so layering is always called for.
If your hair is ultrafine, thin, and wispy, you look best with a shortish cut that is layered around the face to create the illusion of volume. The outline is geometric, but the edges are softened by the layering.
If your hair is thick, you can opt for a wilder, "lion's mane" effect if you wish, but layering is still important.

Avoid:
All severe geometrics.
Blunt-edged symmetrical cuts.
Boyishly cropped cuts.
Overly ornate, teased or coiffed hair.
Smooth sleek styles.












HAIRCOLOR: 

Your haircolor should be rich and vibrant, in keeping with your free-spirited freshness!
If you choose artificial coloring, keep the base of your hair very close to your original shade.
Streaks and highlights are generally best, for they give you more of that outdoorsy glow.

If you are extremely bold, you could opt for bold, dramatic streaks, giving you a lynx cat look. This is very extreme, however, don't do it unless you are prepared to carry off the flamboyant theatricality in your everyday life!

Avoid:

Extremely artificial shades (blue-black, platinum, or brassy yellow-blonde, fiery red, etc).
Be careful with lightening the hair. Anything designed to "soften" the color is going to be very dull and aging on you.

About makeup

I don't wear makeup. If the my natural lines and colors are supposed to be perfect, then the natural colors and contrast of my natural face are perfect as well. Besides, it's a lot of fuss and I'm very sensitive... so I figure it's better to wear just my smile as makeup, than have a perfect makeup and watery, red eyes :-D

Anyway, this is what I think Kibbe meant Flamboyant Naturals should wear:
Natural, fresh makeup, strong, bold lips.

"Makeup should be strongly contoured in shape, emphasizing strong eyes, strong lips, strong cheekbones, but not overly colorful. An exotic eye makeup is a nice touch, but avoid colors that are too artificial-looking and excess glitz.
On the other hand, makeup that is too minimal in effect is very unsophisticated on you. Your head-to-toe look-- bold and sweeping, uncluttered with exotic accessories-- requires the extra effort here to be completed in the most polished and sophisticated manner."


What I think is more important are the key words and sentences mentioned in the makeup section:
Strong, deep, bold, blunt

Exotic (bold and fresh)

Exciting and warm

"the hint of drama that spells elegance on you"

"the slightly exotic air for which you are famous."


Kibbe uses the word "exotic" quite often. I would like to know what he thinks when he says exotic.
The dictionary gives this as one of the suggestions: "strikingly unusual or strange in effect or appearance". I think of Arabic, Middle-Eastern, Indian women.

These are faces most people would classify as exotic... so - orientalism, the dream of the innocent beauty on a tropical island... with dark hair, dark eyebrows and lashes, soft, not too dark, but not light skin, small chin, high cheekbones, lush lips, large cat eyes and a feminine nose in the middle. Not sharp, not round, but short and straight, perhaps a bit wide... with a touch of wildness and danger...

Focal point



"A focal point is the element in a painting that pulls in the viewer's eye, that is the center of attention or the main subject. You can emphasize a focal point through composition, color, and the range of tones you use."

"A focal point is the most striking object in your field of view. It can be the center of activity, or the point you are drawn to concentrate on the most. Focal points draw a viewer's eye inviting their gaze to linger and explore. A focal point may be supported by other items that help draw attention to it."

How to create this focal point, then?

1) Color

Color has three main qualities; hue, value and intensity. Hue is about which color it is, yellow, blue, green. Value is about how light or dark the color is. Intensity is about how dull or vivid the color is, about the saturation of the color.
Here's a graphic example of the intensity - on both ends, there's intense, pure orange and it's opposite color, turquoise blue. We start adding the opposite color to each other, a little at a time. When there's exactly equal amount of the opposite color blended with the color, it's pure grey.
(You get brown blending grey to oranges and reds.)


Now, to use the color to create the focal point, you need to know that our eyes tend to seek pure, unmuted, light and bright colors. Light at the end of a tunnel, brightly colored berries and fruits among the green vegetation, poisonous insects and lizards...
So - to create a focal point, use an item of clothing of opposite color from the rest of your outfit.
Use the same color but considerably lighter. Use the dark colors far away from the focal point.
Use the same color as pure, unmuted, and the muted colors, greys and browns, the neutrals, away from the focal point.
You can also use the color properties to lead the eye to the focal point, by gradually brightening the colors.

You can also directly lead the eye to the focal point, by using lines of the clothing, like drapes or stripes, or the outlines and seams of clothing.
 You "mark the spot" with difference. Our human eyes are used to spot differences. The difference doesn't need to be of color, it can be also different material, finish, texture, pattern, etc. For example - a metal brooch. A belt buckle. Leather belt with a tweed suit. Satin bow in a velvet dress.

The last image on this row illustrates another way of using the qualities of color. You can frame the focal point, and then using the muted colors is excellent. You don't want to make the frame the focal point, but what is being framed :-D
I mean, some of these might feel stupidly obvious, but human mind likes stupid obvious :-D It is totally ok to put some big arrows and blinking lights to scream "look here!!!"

Here's three more ways of creating the focal point.
1) focus :-D Sharpen the details in the focal point while softening everything else, and softening more the further away from the focus you get.
2) movement - your eyes get drawn into the center of movement as if it was a vortex. So - put the most movement, most excitement, most action in the focal point, and keep the rest still and calm.
3) stop the flow. Use one pattern for the rest of the outfit, and another, clearly different, for the focal point. Or put everything vertically everywhere else, and then abruptly horizontally at the focal point.

How to adjust all this to clothing? How to place the focal point at high waist?
- empire line tops and dresses
- use belt under your breasts
- put a brooch in the spot.
- have clothing with drapes that are fastened at the focal point.
- put a trim there, like a flower or a bow.
- adapt the seams:
This blouse is a very good example, as the seams follow the waist up to breasts where they stop, leading the eye there, and the breasts make the fabric form a fold to the desired focal point.

This picture also illustrates another point. See where the sleeves end? That's also a line leading your eye to the focal point.
So you can use also the details away from the focal point to create "arrows" to lead the eye.
In art this is done (among other things) by making the people in the painting point at the focal point. We humans are pretty "dumb" in that way, we will look at what is being pointed to us :-D So - arms, things people hold in their hands, like swords, tree boughs, fences, flying birds, anything with a natural point and direction to follow. In clothing these "arrows" can be an edge of a pocket, piping, folds, row of buttons etc.

(There's nothing stupid in it, really. It's one of the qualities that made the humans survive against predators, that are ridiculously better "designed" than we are, in that point of view.  But - we inhabitet this planet and are about the only animal that exists everywhere, from North Pole to South Pole. On land, at least :-D And didn't we just had to invent things to allow us to travel on water and go under it, or fly? :-D So, nothing bad about us being "dumb". It's "dumb" in the automatic, instinctive way, that makes it possible for us to fool the eye and get people look at what WE want them to look at.)

Other things to consider.

If you have several details, make the main focal point biggest, lightest and brightest. Most contrasting, most different, most obvious.

All the other details should be arranged AROUND the focal point.

A crossing creates a focal point. Use that with seams or trimmings like piping.


Downplay the background.

Visually underline your focal point.

Frame the focal point by placing it between two of the same - like the sides of a cardigan. Now, for a Natural, the outfit shouldn't be symmetrical, so use a belt with a buckle as the focal point under a cardigan, but place the buckle on the side, not directly in the middle. Or put a flower on your belt.

Searching, searching...

I'm trying to understand my own form... I have traveled from Soft Gamine (Ingenue) to Dramatic Classic to Soft Dramatic to Soft Natural, and then Flamboyant Natural.

I am more wide Yang than sharp Yang, but there's a lot of softness, too. *sigh* So I assume I'm what they call "Art Nouveau Natural". "Angelic Natural" :-D

*sigh*

Anyway, the good thing here is that this seems to be the difficulty of defining the Yang people with Yin in them.
Soft Dramatic fitted a lot, but there are things that don't work for me.
Like my natural preference of comfortability.
My natural tendency to avoid accessories and makeup.
My lifestyle that doesn't fit the SD clothes.
And the fact that I look good in princess seams. :-D

Also, I love shoes. :-D

In the Soft Natural group they agreed on that I probably fit better in the Flamboyant Natural group... that there is quite a lot of dramatic in me...
So - I'm trying the Flamboyant Natural on, to see, if that resonates with what I have liked most in my life, and what has looked good on me.


Thursday, November 13, 2014

More on Kibbe

"In a rose-colored suite 12 stories above 57th Street in Manhattan sit eight women awaiting transformation. Tall and short, stocky and svelte, plain and pretty, they have come to David Kibbe's Metamorphosis salon with but a single dream: to be beautiful. "What is your glove size?" Kibbe, 32, asks a tall brunette slouching nervously against a wall. "How big are your feet? Now pull your hair back so I can see your face." He stares, furrows his brow and delivers his judgment. "Think of yourself," he purrs, "as the physical equivalent of the Chrysler Building."

It's not your average beauty tip. But then Kibbe, as he is quick to point out, is no garden-variety make-over artist. "I'm not just another ditzy beauty person saying, 'I think you should do this, dahling,' " says Kibbe, whose new manual, David Kibbe's Metamorphosis, will be available next month. "Most beauty consultants work by correcting your presumed flaws, but I believe there's not one thing about your appearance that isn't absolutely perfect for the individual you are."

- Even If You Look Like the Pentagon, Make-Over Man David Kibbe Claims He Can Bring Out the Beauty Within
He's right, of course. He does look at the people as a whole, and does see what fits and what doesn't and how to emphasize the unique beauty in everyone... and that's different from any list of rules.

I enjoy Polyvore, make a lot of sets and have fun. Now, lately, I have been using Polyvore to better understand Kibbe categories, and especially trying to find my own... and I have come to realize that there are two (at least) types of people on Polyvore. Those who follow the rules, and those who follow their own preferences.
People who follow the rules, choose every item according to how it fits to the list of specifics; the Rules.
People who follow their own preferences, pick the items according to how they fit the whole, the end result, the finished picture. These people usually have an idea of what they are looking for and get constantly irritated by not being able to find the exact item they are looking for. Like mint green suede boots without any trims. :-D
I am TRYING to follow the rules, but every now and then, an item that seemingly fits the rules, don't bring the desired qualities to the finished outfit.

Loke this one. It emphasizes the shoulderline and is draped, and follows the waist... but it's not Soft Dramatic. I think it's Soft Natural. It looks boxy, square, wide. And if you look at the sets people at Polyvore have made with this top, you will see that is how other people see it, too. Some try to force it with a skinny skirt and more dramatic accessories, and, sure, it's not bad, but most people put it together with a-line skirts, jeans, blazers... and with those it looks amazing. It gives Goddess-like grace, strength and softness to simple jeans or a simple skirt, whereas with skinny black pants and lots of gold accessories, it looks shapeless, cheap, tired and


P.S. Apparently I'm that blue blouse... when I try to dress glamorously or femininely or dramatically or classically or what ever, I will look boxy, cheap, tired and just wrong... but when I dress Soft Natural, I'm strong, graceful, fluid, Goddess-like of expression.
...
...
I DON'T WANT TO BE SOFT NATURAL!!!

Ranting more about Kibbe :-D

Of these ladies, Kibbe has classified 6 as Dramatic and 6 as Theatrical Romantic or Romantic.
Romantic and Dramatic are the extreme ends of the yin-yang-spectrum of physical characteristics. That means, that Dramatics have dramatic facial features, extreme yang - sharp or broad, high cheekbones, very special facial features, like big or sharp noses, small or narrow eyes - could also be excessively big, huge eyes, like Joan Crawford, otherwise yang faces are almost manly faces.
My husband defines a yang face as "having character, being interesting" and yin face as "boring". (I have a yang face :-D)
The Romantics have this yin face. Round or heart shaped, short, childlike, with round or delicate, small features, big, feminine eyes, small nose, lush mouth, soft, applecheeks, dimples, you know, the classical idea of feminine beauty.
Now, Theatrical Romantics are only slightly sharper than Romantics. Romantics are all curves and kittens, Theatricals have some sharpness in bone structure.

So, take a guess. Which of these ladies would pass as men? Which of these ladies could be called less beautiful, in the classical, pretty, girlish kind of way. You know, Disney princess kind of way.

I would have guessed five of the six right, and the last one wrong.
I don't understand why Hedy Lamarr is "Theatrical Romantic" but Lana Turner "Dramatic".
What's Dramatic in her?
What's not yin in her lush, round mouth, round apple cheeks, cute little nose and chin... she even has dimples!


But - according to Kibbe she obviously belongs in the same groups as Anjelica Huston, Tilda Swinton and Cher.


And here's how Lana Turner got older:

Here's how Kathleen Turner got older.

They are both identified as Dramatic by Kibbe.

 I wonder if he makes decisions like this to ensure he will have business, because this type identification system isn't very systematic and logical...

Also, this is Hedy Lamarr:



"Theatrical Romantic body type (flesh)
yin
Soft and voluptuous, although trim and smallish (as opposed to wide and bulky).
Hourglass figure;curvy bustline and hips with a waspish waist."
Er... how is that "soft and voluptious"? "Hourglass figure"? "Curvy bustline"? "Waspish waist"?

Saturday, November 8, 2014

David Kibbe's style categories

Dramatic

Physically, you have sharp angles and chiseled features.
To express your extreme Yang essence we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Regal Lady.

A Dramatic will not:
*Have an hourglass figure
*Have lush, full facial features (round eyes, fleshy cheeks, full lips)
*Have a broad or blunt bone structure or facial bones
*Be petite or extremely small in stature
*Be perfectly symmetrical
*Have short or fleshy arms and legs

Moderate to tall, 5 feet 5 inches and over

Dramatic Bone Structure
Yang (sharp)
Angular, with sharp edges.
Usually have square shoulders (may be narrow)
Hands and feet are usually long and narrow.
Facial bones are sharp or prominent (nose, jawline, cheekbones).
Sometimes the bone structure is called "delicate" because of its narrowness. This is actually not true, for the extreme length keeps it from being truly delicate. A more helpful description would be "sleek."

Dramatic body type (flesh)
Yang
Straight and angular, may tend to long or sleek musculature (sinewy or lithe).
Usually have long legs and arms.
Narrow in width.

Dramatic facial features
yang, sharp, dramatic
Straight, sleek lines.
Sloe or almond eyes; narrow, thin or straight lips; taut skin, especially around the cheek and jaw areas.

Soft Dramatic

Physically, your bone structure is large and angular, but is softened by a fleshy body type and full facial features, particularly evident in your large eyes and full lips.
To express your bold Yang/extra Yin total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could be described as Diva Chic.

A Soft Dramatic will not:
*Have a boyish figure
*Have small hands and feet, or a delicate bone structure
*Be overly petite, or small in stature, with short limbs
*Have delicate or small facial features
*Be symmetrical in body type or facial characteristics

Moderate to tall, 5 feet 5 inches and over

Soft Dramatic Bone Structure
Yang (sharp)
Large and angular.
Long limbs, and large hands and feet (may be long or narrow, or wide).
Facial bones are prominent or sharp (nose, cheekbones, jawline).
If your bone structure is narrow (particularly the shoulders, hands, feet, wrists, or angles), you may think of yourself as delicate. This is not true, for the extreme length offsets the narrowness.

Soft Dramatic body type (flesh)
Yin
Fleshy (unless ultra-thin), particularly through the bust and hip area.
Usually have long legs and arms, which can become fleshy in the upper arm and thigh areas without exercise.
Usually have moderate-sized waist, which can become thick.

Soft Dramatic facial features
yin
Full, lush, sensual, and exotic.
Large eyes, full lips, fleshy cheeks.

Romantic

Physically, your bone structure and your features are delicate and your body has lushly curves.
To express your extreme, soft Yin total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Dreamspinner.

A Romantic wil not:
Be extremely tall
Have a large bone structure or large hands and feet
Have a stragiht or boyish figure
Have angular or sharp facial features
Have a prominent nose or angular chin
Be symmetrical

Moderate to petite, 5 feet 5 inches and under

Romantic Bone Structure
Yin
Delicate and smallish.
Usually to the wide side.
Rounded or sloped shoulders.
Small hand and feet (may be slightly wide).
Facial bones are small, delicate and may be slightly wide or lush (nose, cheekbones, jawline).
If your bone structure is slightly wide or lush, you may think of yourself as having a large bone structure. This is actually deceiving to you, for the shortness of your limbs and extremities (hand and feet) offsets the width. In context of your overall voluptuous figure, your bone structure is definitely delicate.

Romantic body type (flesh)
yin
Soft and voluptuous.
Hourglass figure; curvy (bustline and hips, with a small waist (in proportion to the curves).
Fleshy arms and legs.

Romantic facial features
yin
Lush; full, and sensual (rounded).
Large, luminous eyes.
Full lips.
Fleshy cheeks.

Theatrical Romantic

Physically, you are delicate in bone structure and soft in body type, with delicate and full facial features (eyes, lips and cheeks).
To express your soft Yin/slight Yang total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Femme Fatale Chic.

A theatrical romantic will not:
*be extremely tall
*have large or wide bones
*have large hands and feet
*have extremely prominent facial bones or features
*have small, narrow eyes, and thin or straight lips
*have a boyishly straight figure devoid of a defined waist

Moderate to petite, 5 feet 5 inches and under

Theatrical Romantic Bone Structure
Yin
Small and delicate.
Slightly sharp edges (shoulders, jawline, cheekbones, or nose).
Small hands and feet (in proportion to height).
Facial Bones are small, delicate, and slightly sharp.

Theatrical Romantic body type (flesh)
yin
Soft and voluptuous, although trim and smallish (as opposed to wide and bulky).
Hourglass figure;curvy bustline and hips with a waspish waist.
Soft or fleshy arms and legs.

Theatrical Romantic facial features
yin, soft, round
Soft and lush.
Large, luminous eyes (sometimes slightly upturned; sometimes slightly "bedroom").
Full, luscious lips.
Soft cheeks.

Classic

Physically, you have a perfect symmetrical bone structure and even, regular features.
To express the Yin/Yang perfect balance of your total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Sophisticated Lady.

A Classic will not:
Be extremely tall.
Have large bone structure, or large hands and feet.
Have prominent or exotic facial features.
Be extremely petite with extremely delicate features.
Have an hourglass figure.
Have full, lush facial features (extremely round eyes, full lips, fleshy cheeks).

Moderate, between 5 feet 4 inches and 5 feet 7 inches

Classic Bone Structure
Balanced
Symmetrical, with a tendency towards slight sharpness.
Slightly angular.
Slightly straight.
Tapered shoulders.
Moderately sized hands and feet.

Classic body type (flesh)
balanced
Evenly proportioned bust, waist, and hips.
Slightly lithe and sinewy musculature.
Moderate to slightly long limbs.

Classic facial features
balanced
Chiseled, symmetrical and evenly spaced.

Dramatic Classic

Physically, you are basically symmetrical with slightly angular edges (bone structure and features).
To express your balanced/Yang influenced total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Tailored Chic.

A Dramatic Classic will not:
Have extremely long limbs.
Have extremely exotic or overly lush facial features.
Have extremely large bones or extremely large hands and feet.
Have delicate bones or extremely small hands and feet.
Have an hourglass figure.
Have a boyishly straight figure.

Moderate, up to 5 feet 7 inches

Dramatic Classic Bone Structure
Balanced with a bit of yang
Symmetrical, with slightly angular edges.
Straight and slightly wide.
Shoulders are tapered or slightly square, usually narrow.
Slightly squarish hands and feet.
Slightly sharp, angular or squarish facial contours (jawline, nose, cheekbones).

Dramatic Classic body type (flesh)
balanced (slightly yang)
Fairly trim and compact when at an ideal weight.
Slightly muscular when at ideal weight.
Bustline, waist and hips are somewhat straight and in even proportion when at ideal weight.
On occasion slightly short-waisted.
Legs and arms tend to be average or slightly long.
Your body type will seem to radically change when you gain even a little weight. This is actually an illusion because your bone structure remains the same.

Dramatic Classic facial features
balanced
Usually moderate to large eyes, moderate lips.

Soft Classic


Physically, you are basically symmetrical with slightly rounded edges (soft body type and features).
To express your balanced/Yin influenced total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Graceful Lady.

A Soft Classic will not:
Have a large or angular bone structure
Have exotic or prominent facial characteristics
Have a boyish or muscular body type
Have a true hourglass figure, with a waspish waist
Be tall
Be extremely petite or small boned with extra delicate hands and feet. 

Moderate, up to 5 feet 6 inches

Soft Classic Bone Structure
balanced
Symmetrical, with soft or slightly rounded edges.
Straight and slightly delicate.
May be small and sligthly wide (but with soft edges, not square).
Shoulder are tapered or slightly sloped.
Facial contours are slightly small and wide (nose, cheekbones, and jawline).
Hand and feet tend to be moderate to small and slightly wide.

Soft Classic body type (flesh)
yin
Slightly rounded, tends to slight fleshiness.
Soft arms, thighs, and waistline.
Evenly proportioned bust, waist, and hips.
Possibility of being slightly short-waisted.
Arms and legs tend to be moderately short (in proportion to height).

Soft Classic facial features
yin
Soft and full, slightly fleshy.
Large eyes, soft cheeks, full lips.
Symmetrical and evenly spaced.

Natural

Physically, you have a softly angular bone structure, asymmetrical features with blunt edges and a slightly muscular body.
To express your soft Yang total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Girl Next Door Chic.

A Natural will not:
*Have an hourglass figure
*Be extremely petite or extremely tall
*Have overly exotic or prominent features
*Be symmetrical with evenly spaced features
*Have extremely sharp features
*Have a boyishly thin figure with a lack of musculature in the arms and legs

Moderate to slightly tall, up to 5 feet 8 inches

Natural Bone Structure
Yang (broad)
Slightly straight.
Slightly angular with blunt edges (as opposed to sharp).
Slightly squarish.
Broad shoulders.
Blunt angular facial contours (nose, jawline, cheekbones).
Hands and feet are moderate to slightly large and squarish.

Natural body type (flesh)
yang
Straight and muscular.
Lean and slightly lithe.
Flat hips ans slightly flat bustline.
Slightly long arms and legs.
Possibly long-waisted.

Natural  facial features
yang
Slightly broad, blunt, or irregular.
Moderate to small eyes.
Taut cheeks.
Slightly wide features (open).
Straight, slightly thin lips.

Flamboyant Natural

Physically, you are broad or long, and angular. Your features are prominent and strong, without being sharp or severe.
To express your strong Yang with blunt edges total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Free Spirit Chic.

A Flamboyant Natural will not:
*Have a voluptuous body type with a curvy bust and hip-line
*Have an hourglass figure
*Have delicate facial features with small or sharp bones
*Have exotic facial features
*Be extremely petite
*Be symmetrical in boy type, bone structure or facial features
*Have a sharp or extremely narrow bone structure

Moderate to very tall, 5 feet 5 inches and over

Flamboyant Natural Bone Structure
Yang (broad)
Large and angular with blunt edges.
Broad and square bones.
Wide shoulders.
Long arms and legs.
Large hands and feet (usually somewhat wide, but they may also be narrow, with long fingers and toes).
Broad or prominent facial contours (nose, cheeks, jaw - blunt, not sharp).

Flamboyant Natural body type (flesh)
yang
Straight and angular (broad, not sharp).
Arms and legs tend toward musculature.
Bust and hips tend to be flat or straight (unless very overweight).

Flamboyant Natural facial features
yang
Broad, blunt and open.
Eyes may be very large and open or very straight and small.
Lips will be straight and slightly thin.
Cheeks will usually be taut, unless overweight.

Soft Natural

Physically, you are basically angular in bone structure, although this is softened by a fleshy body type and full facial features (eyes, lips, cheeks).
To express your soft Yang/Yin undercurrent total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Fresh and Sensual Lady.

A Soft Natural will not:
Have an extremely straight body type
Have extremely sharp features
Have extremely sharp bone structure
Be extremely tall
Have an extremely large and broad bone structure
Be symmetrical in body type and facial features

Moderate to slightly small, up to 5 feet 7 inches

Soft Natural Bone Structure
Yang (broad)
Slightly angular bones.
Slightly square or broad shoulders.
Moderate to slightly short limbs (slightly leggy look also possible).
Slightly blunt, or small and irregular facial contours (nose, cheekbones, and jawline).
Hands and feet are moderate and fleshy, or slightly small and wide.

Soft Natural body type (flesh)
yin
Slightly soft, tends towards fleshiness.
Slightly small waist that's in proportion to bust and hips.
Slightly curvy, tends to an hourglass shape, but not extremely so.
Slightly fleshy upper arms and thighs.

Soft Natural facial features
yin
Full and rounded.
Round eyes, full lips, soft cheeks.
Nose tends to be small and wide, or slightly irregular (blunt or wide).

Gamine

Your most obvious physical quality is your petite Yin stature.
The size of your bone structure is Yin.
The shape of your bone structure and body type are both angular, composed of straight lines. Your facial features, particularly your waiflike eyes, add yet another dash of Yin.
To express your Yin/Yang total essence of combination of opposites, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Piquant Chic.

A Gamine will not:
Be over 5 feet 5 inches (and is usually even more petite).
Have extremely large bone structure.
Have prominent or exotic features (except for enormous eyes).
Have large hands and feet.
Have an hourglass figure, with a waspish waist and full bust and hips.
Be symmetrical in body type or facial features.

5 feet 5 inches and under

Gamine Bone Structure
Yang (boyish)
Angular.
Sharp.
Narrow - sometimes described as delicate.
Square or tapered shoulders (tend to narrowness, as opposed to broad).
Delicately sharp facial contours (nose, jaw, cheekbones).
Hands and feet are moderate to small, and tend to narrowness.
Arms and legs tend to be long.

Gamine body type (flesh)
yang
Straight.
Lithe and lean, tends toward sinewy musculature.
Tends toward flatness in bust and hips (unless overweight).
May be very leggy (coltish).
Possibility of being slightly short-waisted.

Gamine facial features
yin
Large eyes.
Moderate to thin lips (narrow or straight, as opposed to full).
Taut cheeks and flesh.

Flamboyant Gamine

Physically, you are Yang in shape (angular), Yin in size (your height). Both sides are important, but Yang is dominant.
To express your combination/extra Yang total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Sassy Chic.

A Flamboyant Gamine will not:
*Be tall.
*Have extremely exotic facial characteristics (except for extremely large eyes).
*Have a delicate bone structure with small hands and feet (in proportion to height).
*Have an hourglass figure with a waspish waist and curvy hips and bustline (even when overweight, the bone structure gives a more squarish shape).
*Be symmetrical, in body type or facial features.

5 feet 6 inches and under

Flamboyant Gamine Bone Structure
Yang (boyish)
Broadly angular.
Square shoulders.
Slightly wide bones.
Large hands and feet, in proportion to height (if very petite, hands and feet tend to be short, but wide and square).
Slightly sharp or broad facial contours (nose, jawline, cheekbones).
Arms and legs may be long, in proportion to height (if very petite, they appear to be slightly squarish).
Facial contours tend to be broad (nose, cheekbones, jawline).

Flamboyant Gamine body type (flesh)
yang
Very defined musculature (unless overweight).
Lean and strong.
Straight lines (flat bustline and hips) unless overweight.
Tendency toward a leggy look (coltish).

Flamboyant Gamine facial features
yin
Usually have extremely large eyes.
Usually have a broad or long facial shape (may be very round or slightly oblong).
Facial flesh tends to be taut, unless overweight.
Lips are frequently moderate to full.

Soft Gamine

Physically, you are Yin in size (petite) and shape (curvy flesh, rounded features), and slightly Yang in your bone structure (angular).
To express your combination/extra Yin total essence, we want to develop an appearance that could best be described as Spitfire Chic.

A Soft Gamine will not:
*be tall
*have a rail-thin or extremely straight body type
*have a large or broad bone structure
*have large hands and feet or exotic facial characteristics
*be symmetrical in body type, bone structure, or facial features
*have sharp bone structure

Under 5 feet 5 inches, usually very petite 

Soft Gamine Bone Structure
Yang (boyish - or girlish in this case)
Delicate and small, yet slightly broad and angular.
Angular edges, particularly through the shoulders (square or tapered).
Small hands and feet (may be slightly wide or fleshy).
Delicately broad facial contours (nose, cheekbones, and jawline - which may have extra bits of angularity).
Arms and legs tend to be shortish (in proportion to height).

Soft Gamine body type (flesh)
yin
Soft, curvy body tends towards fleshiness.
Curved bustline and hips with some natural waist defininition.
Arms and legs tend to be soft and fleshy, particularly through the hip and thigh areas.

Soft Gamine facial features
yin
Doll-like facial features (saucer-eyes, round and fleshy cheeks, full lips)
Facial shape may be very rounded, and it can have a slightly sharp or slightly strong jawline.