5 piece French wardrobe, Winter 24-25

 As many of you know by now, I adore Vivienne Files. I was inspired by: FIVE ACCENT COLORS WITH NAVY

I decided to do Autumn/Winter 2024/2025 for London Fashion Week

I chose Cherry Tomato, Starlight Blue, Almond Milk, Wave Ride, and Eggplant

As the neutral, I chose grey.

Here's a couple of scarves that fit the color scheme.

Roeckl's Wild Tucan -  Dolce & Gabbana's Silk Road - Hermès' Folklore - G&Silk's Shy Toucan

Here's what I chose for Cherry Tomato when I started working with this - 

And here's the new option - I couldn't decide between the shirt and the top, nor could I choose between the bags :-D I would have wanted a bit more "sensible" shoes, but when I saw those I couldn't resist... they will go so nicely with the hat... just add a pair of leather gloves, red, grey or black... So nice!

And here a couple of suggestions. As you see, it's not that old fashioned :-)

Next color is Starlight Blue. There's a lot more room for larimar and aquamarine jewelry here. I'd also like to give her a lot of bracelets, cuffs, and bangles, and rings. 

I'm very happy about those shoes, that have grey, red, blue, and the almond milk greyish pale color. 

And a couple of suggestions on how to wear these clothes. I have the blue top as a cardigan and as a top, worn front to back. She should really have a necklace :-D

The next color is the Wave Ride. It's pretty close to the Chinese blues.

I chose a more "rustic" fair isle cardigan, and was a bit worried it wouldn't work so well with the rather sophisticated base pieces, but it works very well. I also chose a scarf from the Russian company Lips&Brain

Then I noticed I had forgotten the bag. As the bag, I chose the Brahmin Caroline... I am in love with the texture and the colors! It might not fit that well to the rest of the wardrobe, but I don't care. :-D

And, frankly, I think it works. I would love to wear this outfit!

Next color is "Almond Milk" - or ecru or bone grey. One could call it "mother-of-pearl" or ivory, if one is being nice. 

I chose the set of bangles to add a bit more color without adding color, and I chose the ecru version of Hermès' Premières Mains for the same reason... I think it works beautifully. It's surprisingly colorful being all neutrals. Pleases my Spring nature ;-)

Then there's the last color; Eggplant. 

I really like the results of this exercise. So much so that I am thinking how I could make this happen in my life :-D

You might want to know what these items are, but I am not going to tell you, because in a couple of years, you will not find these things anywhere, the links will be dead, and you will have to replace them with something similar anyway. Also, you might not find them in your size, and perhaps the style/color doesn't really fit you and your lifestyle, or the items don't fit your budget. 

You know I love Vivienne Files

 She made a wardrobe based on Le grand bois painting. I disagree with her color choices.

To me, this is green and brown with golden accents. The main color (60%) is the forest greens, the 30% is the brown of the tree bark, and the accent is the golden yellow. Yes, there is a dash of blue, but it's more teal and purple. I am aware of the optical illusion that makes the painting appear more blue than it in reality is - it's framed by the orange/golden yellow colors that are the contrast color of blue.  Nevertheless, in reality there isn't that much actual blue in the painting, and in my mind should be used as an additional color in prints and accessories

For example, I have here four scarves that would work beautifully with this color scheme.

It's two Hermes, Emily Carter's Tropical Toucans 

and a generic green scarf sold on many sites under many names.

So, on with the wardrobe :-)

Now, Janice has created her wardrobe for a writer on a retreat, closed off the community, so no scarves, and just casual, comfortable clothes. I would skip the earrings, though :-D 

Because of this, I don't think a silk scarf would work that well, let's give her a long winter scarf.

This whole pile of scarves would be nice :-D

I basically kept only the dark grey pants and those olive green boots - I love them. I replaced the blue with olive green and the greys with that taupe/cocoa brown. I chose a yellow scarf, hat, and gloves, and I love those yellow shoes. My pieces are a bit more feminine. I also chose a longer coat, so that she can wear it over the long cardigan. 

The Classic 5 Piece French Wardrobe

Posted on December 27, 2012 by Jennifer Lee

In my quest to have both a minimalistic and chic wardrobe, I came across the idea of the Classic 5 Piece French Wardrobe. I wonder where this originally started, but can’t find anything about its origins just yet. What I did find, however, is what this is all about. Basically, you start with the basics and build your wardrobe from there with just five classic, stylish, and high-quality pieces each season. The trick is to only buy five per season and no more. This alleviates the impulse buys and the sale rack purchases we all too soon regret. This avoids clutter in your closet and allows you to purchase high-quality garments that will last you for years. It also saves time and theoretically money, since you would not be buying things you do not absolutely love.

While I found quite a few posts on this 5 piece French Wardrobe, there was some conflicting advice and rules. The best one I found is from The Urban List and it is from this website from which I will base my information. The reason I am using this list as opposed to the others I found on various blogs is because this list is newer and it is based off of the wardrobe basics list that Calexico uses, which is a modern and fashionable boutique in Brisbane.

The rules:

Basics don’t count and are always allowed
Accessories don’t count
Shoes do count
Socks and underwear don’t count
All the rest counts

Pretty simple, right?

The Calexico Basics (my choices/substitutions are in parenthesis):

Tops

Black, grey, and white t-shirt
Black, grey, and white tank
Silk shirt/blouse (button down white shirt)
Black dress
Blazer
Simple cashmere sweater (black simple cardigan)

Bottoms

Black trousers (Black skinny pants)
Skinny jeans
Boyfriend jeans
Leather trousers (Black wide leg pants)
Black pencil skirt

Jackets 

Leather jacket (Gray Wool Peacoat)
Trench coat
Winter coat

A complete black suit

Shoes 

Black stilettos
Mid-heeled ankle boots
Flats
Summer sandals
Sneakers

Accessories 

Gold or silver watch
Neutral leather bag
Clutch

Different blogs and websites had a little variation on the basics, so this is my version of what will work for me. From my perspective, when you look at your wardrobe this way in terms of style and basics, you will see the holes right away. For example, I had none of these t-shirt colors in my wardrobe.

Helpful tips:

Choose a neutral base color and stick with that for your shoe and coat choices. I recommend black, especially for achieving the quintessential French look.

From what I have read, French women wear scarves daily. Remember- these don’t count in your seasonal 5 pieces, so choose colorful scarves to accessorize.

Go through your wardrobe first and get rid of all of the clothes you don’t like or don’t wear. Don’t save clothes for a special occasion. If you haven’t worn it in the last year, or hate how it looks on you, get rid of it.

(Now, I don't have the original photos, so I'll use my own to illustrate this. After all, this capsule wardrobe is made after this list. -Ketutar
Also, I replaced the leather pants with another pencil skirt.)

"I can't find the right color!"

What to do when you have found your personal color palette, but the fashion industry won't cooperate with you, and you can't find clothing in the right colors?

Carole Jackson in her book Color Me Beautiful said you have to have a long-term plan, so you can slowly fill it, and can buy clothes when your colors are trendy. They will be, sooner or later.

That the high fashion trends aren't your style doesn't much matter, because there will always be classic cut clothes available. When it comes to your basic wardrobe, the items should be classic, so that you can wear the same blazer or pants for decades. Most capsule wardrobes are based on the idea that you can buy only a few special items every year that keep you fashionable. I mean, the fashion jeans in the 70s were flared, but straight-leg jeans were available. You could wear the same straight jeans from the 1950s to the 2020s, just changing accessories and tops, and be fashionable.

Also, the classic cut clothes are usually also better quality.

Carole also says that you need to shop, not for clothes, but purchasers :-D If you find a purchaser who has your coloring, you have struck gold. They will have access to much more than you do, and they will find the items in your colors, and take them into the store, even when the colors might not be trendy right then. Especially if you befriend them. You can also get tips on where to find clothes in the right coloring if you can't find them in her store.

That's another thing one can do, find social media groups of people who share your coloring. They can share where they find the clothes of right colors, and tip you about designers and stores you might not know otherwise.

Another great tip is to find a seamstress who can sew your clothes in the colors and materials you want. The price won't be that much higher, and in some cases, it will be lower. Nevertheless, it's very much worth it. The clothes will be perfect for you AND you will be supporting small, local entrepreneurs and craftspeople. 

You can always learn to sew and knit and make your own clothes. It's very intimidating, but it's not difficult.

You can always dye the clothes. Choose white clothes to dye, or clothes with the "right" undertone. Light blue for cool colors, light yellow for warm colors, because the undertone will always come through. If you are a Spring, don't dye grey clothes and believe to get anything but muted Summer colors. If you are a Winter, don't dye clothes with warm colors, like yellow, orange, tan, or beige, because the results will be Autumn colors. 

Now, until you find the right colors, you will have to do with the wrong ones. Also, it's expensive to change the whole wardrobe at once. Especially when you are to invest in good quality clothes. (Though you might not care about that. Not all do.) The good news is that clothes wear down, and eventually you have to buy a new one, and when you know which colors and styles fit you best, you can buy something that will serve you longer and better. (Yes, I know, there are people who take so good care of their clothes that they are still wearing the things they bought decades ago.)

You can save a lot with a scarf in the right colors closest to your face. Pants, skirts, and shoes don't matter that much, as they are away from your face, but tops can be difficult. Now, if you know how to knit, you can knit yourself tops in the right coloring (even if it's just a vest). You can get simple tops in white (like T-shirts and button-down shirts) and wear them with the right colored scarves and tops.

This is Kate Bosworth, and she's usually classified as Light Spring. The dark, soft green doesn't fit her that well, but let's say she is not Kate, but just an ordinary girl, who bought the top because it's cute and the color works so well on her Summer friend who has about the same coloring as she does. Something as little as jewelry in the right color saves the top. You can help the color a bit by choosing the jewelry or scarf in the same color family - Summer green top, Spring green accessories.
(Also, I find it interesting that it's the same photo - the only thing that differs the two is the color of the jewelry... and I think Kate on the left has brighter hair color, brighter eyes, even thinner arms :-D)

Random thoughts

 I have been playing with my colors and styles, again :-D

I decided to scrap the Kibbe styles all together, and go by what my heart says :-D Which is a blend of... a lot of things. 

What I want to address here is the contrast. I made this "value" thing.

Apparently my skin is very pale, my eyes are very dark, and my hair is darker than I thought it is. It used to be very blonde when I was a kid. :-D The contrast was even bigger then, with those dark, dark eyes :-D (They are actually hazel. Hard to see.)

Anyway, the contrast between my eyes and skin is pretty big. But the color contrast is not. The colors of my skin, hair, and eyes are pretty much all the same. :-D (Though hazel counts as green eyes, and they are grey and golden brown - amber, my husband says.) 

I have been going through Imogen Lamport's blog and reading about the contrast. A lot of good information. And it has made me realize that it's not that I can't do patterns, it's that I can't do many colored patterns. Because I don't have many colors in me :-D (Except the eyes, of course.) That means I can do a lot of patterns, but only monochromatic ones :-D There can be a lot of contrast, but only in value. (And then I need to have strong chroma, can't do muted.). (Also, I need dark background color.)

I would look great in the red dress, but not in the one with red flowers and green leaves.

(Well, I'm 54, so maybe not that short :-D)

I have also made some progress about my body shape and how to dress it, and my style preferences :-D

I saw this video, which talks about expanding your body type beyond pears and apples. But the problem there is that they don't care one bit about the shape of hips. 

I, for example, have high hips that are V shaped. I am widest at hip bone, and then I taper down. I'm literally shaped like a carrot :-D 

Also, I have a short neck, short and wide chest area, and short waist. And big boobs. That are widely set. :-( And rather narrow shoulders. (Carrot, again :-D)

So I think I'll stay with apple :-D

I should need to elongate my neck, widen my shoulders, while narrowing my chest, elongating my waist while shortening my hips, taking in at stomach while adding to my bottom, narrow down my hips on top, but widen them at the bottom. And even though my legs are long, they are also muscular and thick... 

I think I'll just ignore the proportions and wear what ever I feel like wearing. Be it tons of scarfs, necklaces, bracelets, rings and belts. (Oh, rings and bracelets? I have rather large hands and stout arms, which makes me look like a gladiator with sausages as fingers when I wear bracelets and rings. Not that pretty, huh :-D)

I know, it's rather contradictory to be saying that I'll ignore all this, while talking about things that I'm going to ignore... :-D

Anyway, I was looking into Suzanne Caygill's color theory, and realized it's based on one self and what colors work. That every person has their own color palette, and there really aren't any seasons or so. And it is basically "wear the colors on you and what ever you like, it will be great." 

You know, most people, who decorate their homes as they like to, use instinctively the colors that work best as clothing as well :-D So, I'll just look at my home decoration ideas and inspiration, and make it into outfits :-D 

(It's funny because that has been my philosophy the whole time - "your shade of purple is the shade of purple you like the best". "Wear the style that best pleases you". "Copy the celebrities who dress like you'd dress".

Vivienne Files IV

 This is part IV, the last part, of me adjusting one of Janice's capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

I'm in no way saying I'm improving her work, that would be impossible, I think, I'm just adjusting it to fit my taste :-D

Now, this last part adds four more pieces to the wardrobe. Two more tops, a dress, and one more bottom. 

Again, I'm changing most of her choices :-D

I "approved" just the pink T, I exchanged the "cute" top with a striped boatneck (pink stripes :-D), and the green lounge pants with green jeans, and then I chose a pink shirt dress instead of another cardigan. 

I saw this amazing video about what you can do with a shirtdress, and decided I have to get one :-D (The one I chose isn't optimal, because it needs to be open and buttoned down all the way down.

So... that's the wardrobe.

So, the outfits:

1. white T, white skirt

2. white T, white cardi, white skirt

3. white T, white pants

4. white T, white cardi, white pants

5. white cardi backwards, white pants

6. white cardi backwards, white skirt

7. brown top, brown pants

8. brown top, brown pants, brown shirt

9. brown shirt, brown pants

10. brown top, brown skirt

11. brown top, brown skirt, brown shirt

12. brown shirt, brown skirt 

13. white T, brown pants

14. white T, white cardi, brown pants

15. white cardi backwards, brown pants

16. white T, brown skirt

17. white T, white cardi, brown skirt

18. white cardi backwards, brown skirt

19. brown top, white pants

20. brown top, white pants, brown shirt

21. brown shirt, white pants

22. brown top, white skirt

23. brown top, white skirt, brown shirt

24. brown shirt, white skirt

25. white T, brown shirt, white skirt

26. white T, brown shirt, white pants

27. white T, brown shirt, brown skirt

28. white T, brown shirt, brown pants

29. brown top, white cardi, white skirt

30. brown top, white cardi, white pants

31. brown top, white cardi, brown skirt

32. brown top, white cardi, brown pants

33. brown shirt, white cardi, white skirt

34. brown shirt, white cardi, white pants

35. brown shirt, white cardi, brown skirt

36. brown shirt, white cardi, brown pants

37. brown top, green cardi, white skirt

38. brown top, green cardi, white pants

39. brown top, green cardi, brown skirt

40. brown top, green cardi, brown pants

41. white T, green cardi, white skirt

42. white T, green cardi, white pants

43. white T, green cardi, brown skirt

44. white T, green cardi, brown pants

45. brown shirt, green cardi, white skirt

46. brown shirt, green cardi, white pants

47. brown shirt, green cardi, brown skirt

48. brown shirt, green cardi, brown pants

49. green cardi, white skirt

50. green cardi, white pants

51. green cardi, brown skirt

52. green cardi, brown pants

53. brown top, pink cardi, white skirt

54. brown top, pink cardi, white pants

55. brown top, pink cardi, brown skirt

56. brown top, pink cardi, brown pants

57. white T, pink cardi, white skirt

58. white T, pink cardi, white pants

59. white T, pink cardi, brown skirt

60. white T, pink cardi, brown pants

61. brown shirt, pink cardi, white skirt

62. brown shirt, pink cardi, white pants

63. brown shirt, pink cardi, brown skirt

64. brown shirt, pink cardi, brown pants

65. pink cardi, white skirt

66. pink cardi, white pants

67. pink cardi, brown skirt

68. pink cardi, brown pants

Uh, I just can't write all of these!

You'll get 17 more with green pants

then you'll get 25 more with each top - the print top alone, with the white cardi, brown shirt, green cardi, and pink cardi, with all five bottoms; the pink shirt alone, with white... you get the idea. 

That is 110 different outfits. 

Then add the shirt dress. You can use it with all the layering pieces, as a layering piece itself, as a big shirt with pants (and with skirts, too, if you want to, even though it might not work too well.)

AND then consider the multiple uses of some garments. I have added some videos on how to make several different kinds of tops of the button-down shirt and even a skirt. You can use the skirts as dresses, or as miniskirts. You can style the shirtdress in different ways, for example, a skirt. 

My problem with this wardrobe is... I don't think the green and the brown go together :-D

Vivienne Files III

 This is part II of me adjusting one of Janice's capsule wardrobes. Go to her blog to see more of it, she's really good at what she does.

The next part is "Mileage 4", which are tops. I have used the same tops Janice chose, with one exception. I like the colors of the Ralph Lauren T, and I love the fact it's a T-shirt, but... I hate it :-D I tried to find a printed top with green and pink on it, that would go with all the other pieces, and this is the closest I could get. It's not good, but it's OK.

With these 12 pieces of clothing, you can create 8x4 different single layer outfits, and 4x4x4 different layered outfits - or even more, considering that the button-down shirt can be used as the first and second layer, and the cardigans can all be used as cardigans and as sweaters (worn backward). Now, if one had some vests or waistcoats here, those could be used as layering pieces or tops. The thing with capsule wardrobes is that most pieces should have multiuse, and everything should go with everything else, so that you really can get the 32+ different outfits.

Here's some outfit suggestions with accessories. I've kept it down, only 4 pieces for every outfit :-D

There's a Hermès scarf with the first outfit, and another Vera scarf with the last one. I'm starting to wonder if the teal in the Vera horse scarf is too teal, and it should be more green.